The Sneaker Universe Of: COMME des GARÇONS
Once upon a time, high fashion and streetwear were two sides of the same coin: Polar opposites that had no business being on the same side.
The year is 2021 and the coin is now a sphere: completely homogenous. A complicated history of inter-genre collaborations over the years has culminated in the landscape we occupy today. While designer-brand partnerships have become synonymous with most major sportswear brands, disregarding the decades it took for us to get here would be criminal. That being said, not all collaborations are created equal.
COMME des GARCONS:
There are two types of people: ones that know the Japanese fashion house’s multi-verse of sub-labels by heart, and those who know them by the heart on the Converse Chucks. Founded and headed to this day by none other than Rei Kawakubo, COMME des GARCONS first came into existence in 1969. Slowly gaining steam through the 1970s, CdG debuted in Paris Fashion week in the year 1981 with fellow Japanese fashion legend, Yohji Yamamoto. But to abysmal reviews.
Although recognized as a signature today, the overuse of the color black, and gender norm-breaking silhouettes tainted the sensitive tongues of critics at the time. As Kawakubo understood, Rome was not built in one day. With an unshaken focus on its vision, COMME des GARCONS changed fashion, slowly but surely expanding its empire alongside her husband in crime, Adrian Joffe. Today, a Japanese fashion institution respected around the globe, COMME des GARCONS continues to push boundaries and shape the world of fashion as seen through Kawakubo’s eyes.
With the continuing expansion of the Japanese fashion institution, the list of collaborators grows day by day. A complete list of collaborative sneaker projects would take ages, so here are some of our favorite collabs.
Nike X Junya Watanabe COMME des GARCONS Zoom Haven (1999)
Headed by Kawakubo’s protege, the first collaboration was handled by none other than Junya Watanabe. The Zoom Haven was part of Nike’s top-of-the-line sub-label called the Alpha Project (think of ISPA, today), which was characterized by the five dots branded on the sneakers. Putting substance over style, the Alpha Project intended to identify and solve product performance problems through collaboration with Nike’s athletes. Fun fact, the short-lived sub-label resulted in the birth of classic silhouettes such as the Air Prestos and the Air Flightposites. Although the first collaborative project was nothing but a recolor of the Zoom Haven Low, it was symbolic: High fashion’s cutting edge and sportswear’s innovator coming together.
Nike X Junya Watanabe COMME des GARCONS MAN Waffle Racer [2002]
Bringing back Nike’s first ever pair of sneakers, this iteration of the collaboration recolored the classic Nike runner with bright colors to better suit the early 2000s color palette. Among the brightly colored pairs, a crisp white Waffle Racer, which is said to have been inspired by white crew-neck t-shirts. While previous projects have focused on highlighting newly released silhouettes, the re-release of the Waffle Racer marked the first time for the Japanese designer to get access deep within Nike's vault. A signature now, Watanabe’s mastery at reinterpreting vintage silhouettes can be traced back to this project.
Vans X Raf Simons X Colette X COMME des GARCONS Slip-On LX Consumed [2005]
As part of Colette meets COMME des GARCONS in Aoyama, Tokyo, 500 pairs of Vans Slip-Ons were released to commemorate the opening of the pop-up shop. In a four-way collab, the classic Vans silhouette was dressed with graphics from Raf Simons’ Spring/Summer 2003 Consumed collection, leaving all the branding in the insole of the shoe. As you can imagine, very few deadstock pairs remain, which is valued at about a few thousand dollars.
New Balance X eYe Junya Watanabe COMME des GARCONS 1500 [2008]
Converse X COMME des GARCONS PLAY Chuck Taylor All Stars 70 [2009]
As recognizable as the CdG PLAY hearts are, the Chucks' legacy was almost ruined by this collaboration. Although the craze only caught on in 2015, the original pair was released a few years prior. With subtle changes to the stitching and upgrades to the eyelets, the essence of the iconic Converse silhouette was retained, only with a twist. Designed by Polish artist Filip Pogawski, the simple heart symbolized a higher-tier for an otherwise democratic sneaker. A frenzy ensued after the release of 2015s iteration, making it impossible to avoid it at all.
Vans X Supreme X COMME des GARCONS SHIRT Authentic Pinstripe [2012]
High fashion meets street, East meets West, a moment of real recognize real. Supreme and COMME des GARCONS came together to release a capsule collection that remains as one of the most revered collaborations to date. Dominated with pinstripes and polka dots, the footwear component was released a few months later. Dressing up the Vans Authentic with varying pinstripe patterns, the capsule collection also included a Vans Sk8-Hi with similar pattern distribution.
Puma X eYe Junya Watanabe COMME des GARCONS MAN Army Trainer [2013]
As part of Junya Watanabe's Spring/Summer 2013 collection, the CdG protege collaborated with Puma to bring high-performance into high fashion. Much of its apparel was sewn from mesh and nylon fabrics, further enhanced by bright color blocking to remind people you frequent the gym. Footwear was no different. Among the many styles, Watanabe released a recolor of the Army trainers with an "eYe" logo slapped on the heel tab. Suffice to say, not a special collaborative release but an example of how expansive CdG collabs are.
Vans X Supreme X COMME des GARCONS SHIRT Sk8-Hi Harold Hunter [2014]
In the third iteration of the Supreme X COMME des GARCONS collaboration, fans were treated with more and louder pieces. Paying homage to the late New York skateboarder Harold Hunter, the iconic photo taken by Charlie Samuels was featured throughout the capsule collection. Along with the customary pinstripes and polka dots patterns, the Vans Sk8-Hi featured the picture on both medial and lateral sides of the sneaker.
Nike X COMME des GARCONS HOMME PLUS Dunk High Clear [2017]
Reigniting the see-through sneakers trend that started with Nike X ESPO Air Force 2, the latest project saw a drastic approach to the classic Dunk High. As explained by Kuwakubo herself, the Dunk High Clear was inspired by Danish author Hans Christian Andersen's The Emperor's New Clothes: A tale of vanity whose emperor and its townspeople were fooled by an invisible dress. Although a folktale, its themes ring true to our obsession with social media. The sneaker itself, literally donning see-through plastic panels, is complemented with black leather overlays.
Spalwart X COMME des GARCONS SHIRT Pitch Low/Marathon Trail [2017]
Known for its specialization in vintage molds, Spalwart is a Swedish footwear brand that aims to preserve shoe making techniques from the 1950s. Inspired by their noble effort, Rei Kawakubo's co-sign came in the form of recolors of the Swedish sneaker brand's popular products. Striking a balance of respecting the original form and adding a flair of CdG-inspired colors, the two have realized a long-term partnership from here on.
Nike X COMME des GARCONS SHIRT X Supreme Air Force 1 Eyes [2017]
Although Supreme and COMME des GARCONS have long been collaborating, 2017 marked the release of arguably one of the most iconic examples of a triple collaboration. As part of the Supreme X COMME des GARCONS SHIRT Spring 2017 collection, the Nike Air Force 1 got a facelift via co-branding just below the swoosh, and prints of dilated pupils. A classic silhouette elevated with simple prints, the secondary market value sits at around 1,000 USD today.
Novesta X Good Design Shop Comme des GARCONS Star Master [2017]
A heritage brand founded in 1939, Novesta is a Slovakian shoe brand that continues to preserve traditional shoemaking techniques from the early 1900s. Star Master, their signature product has carried the Slovakian shoemaker's torch of casual yet utilitarian design aesthetic for close to a century, even helping dress the Slovakian army back then. Although the first contact happened in March of the same year, the CdG Star Master is an unmistakable collab between the Slovakian heritage brand and the Japanese fashion label. A tame joint effort in retaining the form and aesthetic of a classic silhouette while featuring the "CDG" logo ubiquitous with the Good Design Shop concept store on the lateral side of the sneaker.
Reebok X Junya Watanabe COMME des GARCONS Freestyle Hi [2018]
Another example of how expansive CdG collabs can be in Junya Watanabe's Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear collection, the Reebok Freestyle Hi was dressed in a punk-inspired facade, changing the impression of an otherwise classic silhouette. Installing silver spikes on the toe box, heel counter, and collar lining, a nice change of pace was observed in an otherwise monotonous basic-wear-inspired collab from Kawakubo's protege.
Nike ACG X COMME des GARCONS HOMME PLUS Air Mowabb [2018]
In line with the hiking/outdoor sneaker trend, 2018 marked the release of CdG's rendition of the classic ACG sneaker. Deconstructing the shoe panel by panel, the end product was the same beast, yet entirely reborn. Covered with phelt-like material, and exaggerated panels, the end product was loud yet subdued with monochromatic color palettes. A highly sought-after collab due to its experimental take on a technical hiking shoe inevitably spawned a line of collabs with similar styling.
Vans X CDG COMME des GARCONS Authentic [2018]
In celebrating their 40th anniversary, 2018 marked an important year for the Japanese fashion/retail empire. Prior to the launch of CDG COMME des GARCONS, e-commerce didn't bode well with Kawakubo, as the Japanese designer believed in the power of retail experience. Although Dover Street Market had already been selling items on digital platforms, it was nothing more than what the name suggested: a market. Although Kawakubo has managed to avoid it for the better part of the decade, the launch of CDG COMME des GARCONS signaled the sign of the times. A new beginning that added another label to the fashion/retail empire, the Vans collab that covered the Authentic with an all-over logo print can seem symbolic but incidental.
Nike X COMME des GARCONS Air Presto Foot Tent [2019]
The Nike Air Presto was released in 2000 to raving reviews, creating an instant classic among the sportswear giant's sneaker portfolio. An undying fandom over decades, we were treated with many variations of the T-shirt shoe over the years. Notably, 2019 saw the re-release of the most obscure iteration yet, in collaboration with CdG HOMME PLUS. Originally designed by Tobie Hatfield (brother to the legendary Tinker Hatfield), the Air Presto Tent was Nike's unicorn designer's experimental take released in 2002. Although deemed as a flop, CdG's archival revival of the foot tent sparked interest, proving Tinker may have just been a bit ahead of his time.
Nike X COMME des GARCONS Shox TL [2019]
Nike is first and foremost a sports technology company. As great as Air is, with an expansive portfolio of sneaker technologies, many become obsolete and never see the light of day again. A few, however, garner enough interest among different sub-cultures and niche communities, gain a cult following. Nike Shox is one of them. Originally designed by Bruce Kilgore (the legend who designed the Air Force 1) and improved by Eric Avar (the man who oversaw Kobe's signature sneaker line).
The mechanical cushioning system was inspired by space shuttle rocket boosters, which had retained their shape over the many iterations that came after. The Shox TL debuted in 2003, but shortly faded into obscurity as the hype around Shox died with the times. Although it did not bloom into the popularity of Air, Shox remained a favorite among European football fans and grime scenes across Europe. In an attempt to revitalize the hype, CdG upgraded the once-obscure sneakers with fluffy panels and gold/silver chains to add some flair.
ASICS X COMME des GARCONS SHIRT GEL-Lyte III Colorful Camo [2020]
Designed by Shigeyuki Mitsui, the GEL-LYTE III celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2020. Most memorable for its split tongue construction, the classic ASICS silhouette is a pioneer in ushering the athleisure aesthetic so prevalent today. As a first, ASICS collaborated with COMME des GARCONS SHIRT to produce a GEL-LYTE III covered in a colorful camo print, accented with grey panels keeping it from being too loud.
ASICS X COMME des GARCONS SHIRT X Yue Minjun Winjob CP303 [2021]
Following the COMME des GARCONS HOMME PLUS presentation for its Spring/Summer 2021 COMME des GARCONS SHIRT showcased a handful of new ASICS footwear collaborations. Among them, is a triple collaboration between the two and Chinese artist Yue Minjun. Two things stand out: Minjun's signature "Smiley Face'' graphic covering the toeox and the sneaker itself being a silhouette designed for kitchen staff to wear. An obscure collaboration atop an even more obscure pair of sneakers, the Winjob CP303 is otherwise finished with white coloring throughout.
New Balance X Junya Watanabe COMME des GARCONS MAN AM574 [2021]
Watanabe's knack for elevating basic silhouettes is well-documented throughout his career. Although an expansive list of partners, New Balance stands out as one of his favorites. Among them, the 574 seems to take the cake for the CdG protege. On this iteration of collaboration, Watanabe dressed the AM574, which is a new model that combines the upper of the 574 silhouette with a flat sole. Other than the vintage-inspired color palette, an abbreviated logo covers the heel of the midsole.
Salomon X COMME des GARCONS XA-Alpine [2021]
In the COMME des GARCONS Fall/Winter 2021 presentation, showgoers were surprised with a new collaborator: Salomon. Although unsurprising considering the steam the French sportswear brand has been gaining recently, the two came together to produce a trio of minimalist sneakers. Among them, the highly technical trekking shoe was treated with the CdG makeover: Completely monotonous, with branding front and center. However, whatever lacking in style, the XA-Alpine compensates with substance, dressed out with all the fancy technology Salomon can offer. A moment to remember, as Salomon may have seen the beginning of a long partnership.
Nike X COMME des GARCONS HO21 Premier [2021]
First introduced in 1992 the Nike Tiempo Premier was a soccer cleat well-loved by the players, which saw iterative upgrades over the years. In an exciting turn of events, the classic football boot saw an upgrade not necessarily for the fields. Also seen in Miumiu and Balenciaga's past collections, the HO21 Premier transforms the Tiempo Premier into a heel, radically changing the impression on the classic football cleat. Functionality aside, the football cleat turned heels symbolize what the Japanese fashion house is capable of: Turning a historical relic into an androgynous piece of footwear that's a little ahead of its time for us to appreciate right now.
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