Next Generation Japanese Outdoor - How Japanese outerwear brands successfully reinvented themselves
Japanese brands have been on the rise in recent years, gaining international recognition for being at the forefront of trends. Over the past few years, functional clothing has become a major influence and part of trends, and Japanese brands have played a big role in this. With their shapes, cuts, and new technologies, these brands offer the sought-after pieces for a new generation of creatives. But many of them used to do business differently back in the day, as we are going to explore deeper into the article. Y2K and dad sneaker specialist ASICS, GORP Core favorite Daiwa, quiet luxury camping expert Snowpeak, high-end functionalists GOLDWIN, and outerwear turned streetwear brand Nanga have all entered a new corner of the fashion industry and received international recognition for their work.
Like the named brands, many outdoor gear players in Japan have successfully undergone a rebranding process from mainly serving the domestic market. They have expanded their scale to become globally renowned outerwear brands and over the past decade have received attention from some of the brands from the fashion Olymp. A good example of this development is the collaboration between Japanese sportswear brand Descente and Parisian haute couture brand Dior. But where does this appreciation for functional clothing of Japanese brands come from and how did these very old brands become the thought leaders of today and tomorrow?
Source: mastered.jp / Dior
While many Japanese outdoor brands have a rich history of producing exceptional technical gear that also looked smart, only during the past decade their fashionable potential has been seized outside of their respective niches. Thus, a big shift occurred in the Japanese outdoor market as brands decided to diversify beyond the performance driven customer bases they had been catering to beforehand, be it in the realm of fishing, alpine sports or camping. In an era characterized by performance sport aesthetics diffusing into street and high fashion styles, brands like Goldwin, Snow Peak or Daiwa recognized the upcoming trends or even shaped them. Bringing in designers with no prior experience in outdoor brands, they created diffusion lines or updated their whole design language. By interpreting their Japanese essence through fashion forward perspectives, experienced outdoor brands and young designers together managed to bring elements of their outdoor sport heritage onto the streets and vice versa.
A cornerstone of the worldwide perception and success of Japanese brands is their exceptional craftsmanship resulting in high-quality products consumers can always rely on. The creative work and further innovation brought into the established brands by external designers elevates their product output into a harmonious match of design sophistication and built quality.
Through this guide, sabukaru aims to dive deeper into five representative brands' legacies and future trajectories, looking at how they pass on their outdoor DNA into the hands of a new generation of street-savvy designers and fashion-forward customers.
Goldwin
Goldwin as a textile manufacturing group holds the domestic trademark rights and licenses for The North Face, leading the Berkeley brand to an overwhelming presence in Japan since 1978. Along Harajuku's Meiji Street, no less than five The North Face stores are in operation today, each one of them being dedicated to different lines, including men's outdoor wear, a women's line, a kids' wear line, and TNF Standard, a more casual, city-focused line. This brand diversification strategy successfully broke the stereotype of outdoor activities and brands primarily being a thing for men to enjoy. Alongside the Standard line, there are other highly coveted lines and collaborations such as TNF Purple Label or the TNF x HYKE collection exclusive to Japan, positioning TNF brand not only as a brand for every demographic, but also for every level of fashion interest.
Although The North Face under Goldwin in Japan led the domestic market for outdoor wear, its growth in the international market was hindered by the limitation of domestic market sales rights. The key to overcoming this challenge and expanding into overseas markets was their eponymous in-house label, Goldwin, which has a history of over 70 years with roots in sportswear, focused on alpine sports. Targeting new audiences in the emerging outdoor fashion bubbles around the world, they launched Goldwin 0 [@goldwin_0] under the direction of designers Jean Luc Ambridge Lavelle [@jeanluc.a.lavelle] from J.L-A.L and Julia Rodowicz [@juliarodowicz] who was previously associated with LEMAIRE. Under their creative leadership, Goldwin 0 represents a more contemporary approach to the heritage of its mothership, additionally focusing on a new, highly technology driven approach to "sustainability."
Goldwin captivates the world with high-quality, sophisticated, and sustainable products that explore nature, science, and technology, thus taking to both domestic and international markets, and contributing to a successful rebranding.
Daiwa
Daiwa, a prominent Japanese fishing brand, has also been successful entering the fashion industry in recent years through sub lines and sub labels. Daiwa pier39[@daiwapier39_official] is one of them. Led by Shinsuke Nakata[@nakadashinsuke], a former Beams employee, the line is inspired by military and Americana styles. Considering Nakata's career path, he successfully translated Beams' expertise in American casual and traditional styles into the field of outdoor apparel. The concept of creating a "seamless bridge between nature and the city" is embodied by the collection, featuring high-spec items unique to the outdoors.
D-vec[@dvec_jp] is a fusion of fishing and fashion, led by Ryota Saito, who has experience working with Yohji Yamamoto. The brand offers fashion-forward outdoor wear using high-performance materials such as GORE-TEX and Cordura. By proposing innovative uses for materials, such as GORE-TEX skirts, vests, and aprons, from a new perspective, D-vec delivers high-functioning and sophisticated wear to a diverse audience.
SNOWPEAK
Tracing back to a mountain gear store in the rural area of Niigata in Japan, as a camping gear brand started by Yukio Yamai in 1958, Snow Peak has grown into one of Japan's leading camping gear brands. Still, it wasn’t until 2014 that its name became widely known domestically and internationally after entering the apparel field [@snowpeak_apparel] under the direction of Yukio’s granddaughter. Lisa Yamai [@lisayamai], also the current president's daughter, brought in her experience in the apparel industry to introduce the concept of "Home-Camp," which eliminates the boundary between urban and natural environments through nature-oriented clothing also fashionable for the cityscapes. This approach resonated well with the increasing interest in [high-end] camping. For example, jackets made from materials that do not catch fire even when exposed to an open flame provide a unique advantage not found in other brands, while at the same time satisfying the interest in gimmicks among outdoor fashion consumers. Pushing into a new market with their own angle on outdoor wear, Snow Peak has gained the support from fashion-conscious camping enthusiasts all around the globe.
Source: depop
Marmot, a well-established American outdoor brand, is experiencing a resurgence in attention due to a rebranding effort led by Japanese designer and model Kikuno Kiki[@kiki_sun] starting from the Fall/Winter season 2023. While still having her own label Purple Things, she joined in with Marmot as a creative director to launch MARMOT CAPITAL[@marmot_capital], joining in with a long history of bilateral influence and collaboration between Japan and the US.
Through Kikuno's modern interpretation, the history and untapped potential inherent in the American outdoor brand was revitalized. Drawing inspiration from her own diverse background and influences from iconic Japanese brands like Comme des Garçons and Junya Watanabe from the '90s, Kikuno aims to bring a harmonious blend of Japanese aesthetics and American outdoor elements to outdoor apparel. The fusion of these contrasting elements breathes new life into outdoor fashion, as Marmot Capital establishes its unique style and identity.
The Route to Success
Behind the successful rebranding of Japanese outdoor brands lies the combination of the high technical expertise inherent in Japanese brands on one side and the perspective from fields different from traditional outdoor contexts on the other. This convergence of skills and innovative thinking has led many brands to positive transformation. Goldwin, Snow Peak, The North Face and the likes have demonstrated that the comfort and functionality inherent in outdoor wear are equally applicable to not only outdoor settings but also to urban environments. Especially here in Tokyo, a city characterized by its bustling activity, diverse events, and constant changes, there exists a demand for functional and comfortable apparel that can adapt to the dynamic urban lifestyle and also satisfies the fashion interest of the wearer. The avant-garde design of outdoor wear has evolved into cutting-edge fashion items, likely because Tokyo, being the world's largest city, resembles a natural environment where unforeseen events can occur.
Writer: Masaya Kato | Born in Niigata, based in Tokyo. Freelancer.
Edited by: Mark Gilcher
