The Sabukaru Guide To Tokyo Kissaten
A world away from the all-white, minimalist cafés that are so popular today, kissaten [or old-style Japanese coffee shops] do not shy away from claiming their own personality. Created in all forms and shapes, discovering a new kissaten always feels like a fresh adventure.
After an introduction to the history of the kissaten, and even how coffee in and of itself first came to arrive in Japan via European traders alongside a list of some historic kissatens, we will now give a comprehensive guide and some choices on these classic coffee shops each with their own dose of caffeine and vintage charm.
The selection of kissaten found below can be thought of as the starting point for the long race that these unique places will keep you running for. A race that at points might feel against the clock – some of the owners will soon retire, and these places are not so appealing to the younger crowd – but no less rewarding in any way.
Moto
Things, things, and more things, everywhere. So many one should be careful when walking around in order to not hit anything with their backpacks. African and Japanese masks and figures, Hindi engravings, a stuffed owl, an elephant tusk, rococo clocks, and thousands of other objects waiting to be rediscovered. Fuel your treasure hunt with a cup of coffee, and an egg-sandwich - a kissaten classic.
Address:
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Neon lights, rose-patterned chair covers, and waitresses in maid-like uniforms. In this kissaten located close to Asagaya station, the interior of a classical British country house gets a sprinkle of Blade Runner pink and violet tones. Specially recommended during the night, when the ambience gets the most intimate and cozy.
Address:
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A kissa coloured in retro red, this café will bring you back to the crazy years of the Parisian Belle Époque through the vintage posters of cabarets and shows that adorn its walls. If the long travel in time left you hungry, nothing better than their sizzling cheese curry. And for dessert, get a taste of one of the signature dishes of Japanese kissaten, the “parfait”. La parfaite cherry on top.
Address:
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El Viento
It was not on a whim that this kissaten was given a Spanish name [El Viento means The Wind in Spanish]. The master lived for two years in the Peruvian Amazonia as a geology researcher, and still remembers some of the Spanish he learned there. Hanging on the walls of his café are the photographs of the Northern Lights he took himself on one of his trips around the globe.
The surprises don’t end with his fascinating life story, but seeing him prepare your cup of coffee is a delightful show. Pouring your coffee from one container to another, almost in the manner of a cocktail bartender, the coffee foams up. He then takes out the foam to reduce the bitterness of the drink. The result: a delicious cup of coffee that is best served with a good conversation [in Japanese, English, or Spanish!] of past travels and adventures.
Address:
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Have you been worrying lately about your future? In Pottery, you can get your fortune read while enjoying a steaming cup of coffee – very recommended having it with their delicious [and original] ball-shaped cheesecake. Give the master your birthday, and she will look into her book what next year has in store for you. Followed by some life advice to better face whatever challenges you may face, you can now leave the store, ready to take on the world.
Address:
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Café Popolo
Between the stations of Sangenjaya and Yutenji, the master of Café Popolo has brought his passion for art and good coffee together into a single place. The owner, who used to be a primary-school Arts teacher, proudly displays his paintings on the walls. A true artist, he creates the paint he uses for his works from scratch [and will be pleased to show you his process]. A cup of coffee and a creamy cheesecake make for the perfect pairing to the visual feast that hangs on the walls.
Address:
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Café Suzuki
Located in Atsugi, this café is well-worth the pilgrimage from Tokyo. Unlike most kissaten, Café Suzuki opens until midnight. And it is at night when you can best capture the aura of this unique place. Inspired by tea houses, you will need to bend over to enter the café through a small copper door. Once inside, the atmosphere is private, and the dimly-lit room invites to talk in whispers.
Their speciality is the espresso jelly, that solidifies in front of your eyes when the master gently pours liquid coffee over a mix of vanilla ice-cream and anko paste. After that, a cup of espresso and a small plate of sweets completes the coffee ceremony that takes place every night at Café Suzuki. Bending over again through the door, it feels that you just came back to reality from a different world.
Address:
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Fontaine
Built in 1967, this kissaten located in a basement floor in front of Kagurazaka station, screams retro right from the entrance, and does it in a beautiful voice that echoes in the unique interior of the place. The menu, with lovely illustrations of all the dishes, is a nice touch for those who have not mastered their hiragana and katakana yet.
Address:
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Café Bon
Contrary to its name [meaning “ordinary” in Japanese], this café located among the hustle and bustle of Shinjuku, is a hidden gem. As you enter, shelves full of beautiful china cups are proudly showcased behind the counter. In Café Bon, they take their cups as seriously as their coffee, roasted and ground on site.
With your drink, you receive a small note with all the information about the cup it is served in. For those days when you feel you deserve a special treat, complete your order with a generous serving of strawberry shortcake, made with natural butter and their homemade whipped cream. Another cute and quirky detail is the toilet, hidden behind a bookshelf-turned-door.
Address:
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Cat-lovers are sure to enjoy their visit to Café Arles, a kissaten located in Shinjuku. The owner’s cats are the real stars of the show, and photos of them being held by a multitude of guests adorn the walls of the toilets. Along with cat paraphernalia, and antique dolls and collectibles, a selection of manga books wait on the shelves for you to take and read while sipping your cup of coffee.
Address:
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*All images provided by Kissamania.
About the author:
Rosa Martin spends her days reading in quiet kissaten, painting, and trying her hand at ceramics, and her nights dancing effusively to techno beats. Lover of the outdoors, she takes any opportunity she has to go and explore the Japanese countryside.
