Sabukaru's Guide to Functional Footwear
Shoes are arguably the most imperative fashion choice we make on a daily basis. Ask most people and they will tell you how although they may have a hefty collection of rare jackets or trousers, they probably have an even greater collection of shoes to go along with them. Although recently it seems we are seeing a decline in the sneaker market, it will undeniably always be engrained in fashion culture.
For some reason, shoes just seem to be so easily purchasable. Not often do we find ourselves buying the exact same trousers of t-shirt or coat, just in all 3 colour ways, but when you look at shoes, we find ourselves copping 6 pairs of the same shoe in various different colours.
It’s a strange phenomenon - sneaker collecting. One that continues to evolve and mutate, just as we find ourselves thinking we’re content. It goes from collecting vintage ‘rare Airs’ to attempting to buy the latest collaboration. We are continuing to chase the dragon that is the footwear game. Although, as we continue to see the function and fashion world collide, we are seeing a new type of shoe sit on top of everyone’s wish list.
Outdoor boots are the new sneakers when it comes to the streets of London, Paris, Tokyo, and Milan. From hiking boots engineered for the alps to modern pioneering steppers that will last a lifetime, people are equipping themselves with some of the best to offer when it comes to footwear. We have featured the topic of this shift towards function within fashion many times on sabukaru and it's no different to footwear. People want more from their products, or perhaps people just want to be able to tell people more about their products. Either way, functional fashion is on everybody’s mind, and now on everyone’s feet.
It's hard to argue why too. With the likes of Vibram equipping brands with some of the best technology that is on offer with their soles, or classic staples such as Paraboot providing us with quality for over 100 years, it’s no wonder that as people dress in jackets ready for storms, they are also doing the same with their shoes.
And it’s for this exact reason these functional shoes are coming in the limelight. As long as the biggest vogue in fashion remains to be functional, technically designed clothing, similar footwear will not tail off.
@louishols wearing Paraboot Michael
@jvck_ray wearing ROA
But as this type of footwear continues to be in the spotlight, things are only looking brighter for the future of this: Vibram are spreading their knowledge and technology to brands further afield, with some not even orbiting the functional universe, historic silouhettes are seeing a revival such as the Oakley Flesh, and brands are becoming more conscious of the functionality behind there product rather than just the aesthetics.
Although all bubbles need to pop, this proverbial bubble seems to be caked in a protective layer of GORE-TEX membrane, helping to reinforce and protect it for years to come. Now that people are feeling the power of technology in there footwear, and the colder months are upon us, it has never been a better time for these more functional style of shoes.
So, as winter is in full force, we thought we would compile a list of some of the best shoes and boots you can get for your hands to help you on the mountain trails or the walk to work. From high fashion to hiking shoes, this list is the ultimate catalogue of heavy hitters that are stamping their mark on the footwear industry.
Demon - Poyana Mammut Boots Brown
Founded in 1963 but laying dormant from 2004 to 2018, Demon is a brand etched into the history of outdoor boots. Not afraid to really create something different, the Italian brand is most iconic for its interesting sole, created by none other than Vibram [you’re going to be hearing about them a lot in this article].
The Poyana boot is always a favourite, with a slick lacing system and a clean yet bold aesthetic. It’s become one of the staples of Demon as well as the sabukaru team and for good reason. Our favourite right now is the brown Mammut variation. Featuring a Vegetable-Tanned Leather Upper, the shoe helps to combine contemporary fashion with a rustic look that harmonizes so well. This one is for the brave.
DIEMME - Cornarno Boots
Established in the early 90s by brothers, Dennis and Maico [combine the two and you see where the name comes from], DIEMME is a brand focused on hiking shoes to get you through the trails in sophisticated style. Often with earthy but warm colours, DIEMME boots are as well put designed as they are well put together.
Our pick from their expansive roster is the suede ankle-high boots, the Cornarno. Coming in a forest green with tonal stitching on the welt, these shoes are a perfect combo for Autumnal outfits that also offer flexibility into the winter months. With grained leather lining and a padded insole, DIEMMEs feature incredible craftsmanship whilst also offering a more stylish look for the outdoor scene.
AKME - Untitled-05
Rarely do we see newcomers in the footwear scene make as big of a splash in the gigantic pond that is this industry, but new brand AKME stemming out of LA is certainly making serious waves. This shoe lands a place on this list not just because of the incredibly robust and slick design, engineering, and functionality, but also the production behind the products. This is a rare occasion where quality and authenticity is absolute, and when you feel these shoes in hand it’s undeniable.
AKME has only just launched but did so properly. Releasing 5 silhouettes, with the ‘Untitled-05’ being our favourite, the brand decorates itself in all black with quality always at the helm. All products are handmade in one of the top factories in LA using Crazy Horse-tanned cow leather, making these a pinnacle of durability. As such a young brand, we can’t wait to see what else comes next, especially as the brands takes great inspiration from sabukaru favourites PROVOKE and Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind.
ROA - Andreas
ROA is continuing to solidify itself as a serious player in the outdoor scene. In recent years they have been pushing out their classic silhouettes and as the hype of functional fashion continues, so do brands like ROA and their ultra-functional take on fashion. Ranging from low to high, ROA combines robust performance with contemporary styling to create a truly unique-looking shoe.
Our favourites right now are the classic Andreas. Designed for outdoor terrain, these units feature a leather upper and as high tops they are the ultimate shoe for comfort and durability. Like many on the list, the ROA Andreas has a Vibram sole for traction for the outdoors. These are incredibly well-made shoes.
Paraboot – Michael
We couldn’t have a list of winter shoes without featuring one of the kings of the mountains. French shoe brand Paraboot has been making top-quality products since 1908. Born at the foot of the Alps, made for the Alps, Paraboot founder Rémy-Alexis Richard created a brand which has always been a classic, and in recent years has soared in popularity amongst almost all corners of fashion.
It's hard to pick just one model of Paraboot to put on this list, but we have to give it to the Michael. A serious contender for the perfect everyday shoe, this model can be seen on the feet of young gorp-oriented kids to the high-fashion crowd. Timeless and sophisticated but still with a creative edge with the use of different fabrics such as pony hair or cow hide the Michael helps to bridge the gap between traditional craftsmanship and modern style.
A Cold Wall – NC.1 Dirt Boot
A Cold Wall is not usually known for their shoes. Instead, the contemporary brand fuses together functional aspects with a dystopian aspect to create one of the most interesting brands of this age of fashion. When this is translated into footwear, we truly start to see shoes that wouldn’t look out of place in a cyberpunk-like film, and this is exactly why we love them.
The NC.1 Dirt Boot combines high fashion formality with an outdoor aspect. Waterproof calf leather adds the functionality you’d aspect from something of this price tag, and with a neoprene sock insert, comfortability is absolute. Coming in an all-black colourway with minimal branding this is a clean everyday shoe that can be used in a diverse array of outfits.
La Sportiva - ULTRA RAPTOR II GTX®Ultra
Founded in 1928, the Italian brand La Sportiva as the name suggests orbits the sports world. From climbing to running, this brand is ultra-functional and built for performance. As the logo suggests, La Sportiva thrives in the mountains and allows for traction like no other.
Our pick is the ULTRA RAPTOR II GTX®Ultra. In our eyes, these are 2022’s new XT’6’s. Featuring GORE-TEX lining making them a great wear for more rainy weather. These bold shoes make a statement and keep you dry on the trails all at the same time. If you find this model in your local store, we urge you to pick up a pair.
Hoka x _J.L-A.L_ - Tor Ultra
Hoka needs no introduction, but stepping onto the wider scene recently is technical powerhouse, Jean-Luc Ambridge Lavelle. Having only just released his first collection for FW22 and his second collection coming very soon, the rising London talent already sees himself landing a Hoka collaboration to mark his triumphant emergence into the fashion industry. This combination of new blood coming together with rich history was always bound to produce something stellar, and this is exactly what the pair have done with their collaboration.
Reimaging the Tor Ultra, Hoka’s coveted silhouette which has seen a mass amount of popularity in recent years, Jean-Luce takes the model and galvanizes it in what could arguably be one of the most exciting footwear releases we’ve seen in recent times. We couldn’t pick between the Low or Highs, and with both shoes being incredible functionally, the added design philosophy and aesthetic of the j_la.l_ universe rounds this off to be a pivotal moment not only in Jean-Luc’s career but for future expectations of Hoka. These at the time of writing are unreleased, so be quick on when they do. And if you already missed out, then search far and wide online to track down a pair. You won’t be disappointed.
GR10K x Salomon Quest Low
This wouldn’t be a list of functional shoes without mentioning Salomon. Coming in as the weapon of choice in recent years for the functional-first fashion heads, Salomon for years now has truly sat on the throne when it comes to footwear in this realm. We could have picked any model, but one that has stood out to us comes from last year’s collaboration with Italian-based technical workwear brand, GR10K.
Coming together on the Quest Low, a staple in the Solomon family, GR10K infuses their brand's DNA into the fibres and stitching of this model. From the colourway to the robust nature of the shoe, this shoe mimics GR10K’s dedication to uniform-inspired workwear. The features of this shoe are expansive: Contagrip® for tackling terrains, a nubuck leather upper for longer durability, Quicklace™ lacing system for practicality - this shoe is a swift army knife and one that we believe will get better and more appreciated with time.
Asics X The Soloist GEL-QUANTUM 360 VII Chelsea Boot
If you were to ask us if we would wear a pair of Chelsea Boots this time last year, we would have laughed. That was until Asics and The Soloist added their magic touch to the classic silhouette and created one of the coolest looking formal-functional crossbreeds we have seen. Decorated in all black, TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist provides us with a lens into the potential future of functional clothing with this release.
Utilising Asics groundbreaking GEL-QUANTUM VII 360 technical sole, these Chelsea boots feature polished leather with suede accents creating a long-lasting shoe that will have you elegantly gliding across the streets and alleys of your home town. Although not built for hiking like many of our additions on this list, we had to feature this future classic for its seemingly simple yet versatile design and aesthetic.
Oakleys x Brain Dead
Everyone’s favourite Y2K icon has been making unprecedented moves in all aspects of fashion for years now. From archive fashion to its expansive barracks of eyewear, Oakley has been going from strength to strength. With its recent partnership with LA-based flamboyant streetwear brand, Brain Dead, we are now also seeing them make a massive comeback in footwear.
Oakley have always created some impeccable footwear, but the Brain Dead collaborations really brought them into the modern market and this is why we felt the need to feature these specifically. We also couldn’t pinpoint one favourite: The Flesh, Flesh Sandal, and the most recent Chop Saw are all stellar releases which help bridge the gap between the gorpcore crew and Oakley’s sci-fi-like aesthetic. Unfortunately these are one of the only additions to this list which are all already sold out at the time of posting, but we urge you to keep a close eye on Brain Dead and Oakley for future releases as we see no sign of them stopping soon.
Slam Jam x Vibram Post Sneakers Black
Slam Jam were and still are a leading destination to pick up your shoes. The Italian-based retailer has some of the finest curations of garments and footwear on offer in Europe, and when you combine this knowledge with the knowledge of sole experts, Vibram, then you get something truly incredible.
Released late last year, the Slam Jam x Vibram Post Sneakers Black are walking SWAT vans. Chunky and sturdy, but undeniably slick and sophisticated, these shoes sit perfectly in the space between statement and staple. The water-resistance upper sits atop a Vibram Litebase and Vibram Megagrip rubber compound sole for ultimate functionality and comfortability. Finished off with debossed branding, this shoe is a real Collison of subtle fashion and robust practicality.
Merrell Winter MOC 3 1TRL
A classic in the outdoor world, Merrell was founded in 1981 in Michigan and since its emergence has been a serious player in harmonising the hiking world with the fashion world. Always with practicality in mind first, Merrell takes pride to create a seemingly simple yet versatile product. Its 1TRL branch focuses on more premium and fashion-forward designs, so its adaptation of the Winter Moc 3 brings together the best of both worlds.
With ultimate comfort and reliable functionality in mind, this model is the answer to more wintery months. As an adaptation to its cousin shoe, the Jungle Moc, The Winter Moc 3 takes all of what the Jungle Moc can do but adds on a warm coat to keep your toes toasty. The fleece lining helps to retain warmth and the pig suede upper manages to add robustness to the model. The sole features a sticky rubber compound for extensive grip on many terrains making this shoe both a comfortable slip-on and a reliable best friend in the field.
Clarks WallabeEs Goretex
A classic in the roster, Clarks Wallabees have not only stood the test of time but continue to be a staple in millions of people’s wardrobes. This shoe has been on the feet of almost everyone in fashion at one point in time and has been reworked by collaborators such as Supreme, Neighborhorhood, Stussy and Bape to just name a few. Being a true pioneer helping to bridge the gap between streetwear and smart-casual clothing, there was no way we could miss this one out.
The Wallabee is not known to be the most robust shoe but add in a GORETEX membrane and this fixes the problem completely. Making these a lightweight, comfortable, and now water-proof shoe that is versatile in styling, The GORETEX Wallabees are your best friend on days when you don’t need to climb a mountain or run a marathon.
Salomon XA ALPINE 2 ADVANCED
Being the second on the list from French-based brand Salomon, this really speaks volumes of not only the capabilities of the brand but the versatility in its design philosophy and creative language. From traditional hiking boots to the more avant-garde style functional silhouettes, Salomon truly covers all basis and the XA ALPINE 2 ADVANCED is a clear indication of this.
The high-top boot comfortability sits in its own space of being a highly functional outdoor shoe but with an elegant and almost luxurious look to it, wouldn’t look out of place with some high-fashion styling. The shoe is lightweight, water resistant and offers immense grip to surfaces, and with features such as the zip closure, it adds a splash of playfulness that often is lacking in functional footwear. This playfulness is decorated in practicality though, so instead of being a mere gimmick acts as a further enhancement to this beautiful shoe.
About the Author: Joe Goodwin is a Tokyo based creative and writer. Born in the UK, but now living in Japan, he explores his dialect with fashion and subculture as he dives deep into the neon streets and back alleys of Tokyo.
