The Ultimate Sabukaru Guide to Ramen in Tokyo
20:30.
You’ve just dropped your bags off at your hotel and exhausted from an 8-hour flight. Fighting the urge to give in to jet lag, you wander outside and look for a restaurant to pop into so you can at least satisfy your growing hunger. Too tired for a proper sit-down meal, you do a quick survey around your neighbourhood and the cool breeze brings in a distinct smell of chicken and pork soup.
Ramen.
A nice bowl of piping hot soup with comforting noodles is just what your body craves. Open up google maps and the options are endless. Where do you go? Do you even bother going through the endless list the search results brought up?
Without much energy to scroll through the never-ending map of ramen shops, you pop into the nearest joint just a short walk away. You stand in front of the Ramen-ordering-machine and realize not a single English menu is insight. The chef behind the line of empty ramen bowls makes eye contact and you realize he’s waiting for your order. Without much thought, you just go for one of the top buttons ...“I hope it’s Ramen?”. You hand the chef your ticket, he nods and in less time it took to try and translate the menu, a bowl of steaming hot soup filled with golden long noodles arrives in front of you. A quick sip of the soup and you’re immediately warmed to the core.
Noodles next. Each slippery strand clinging perfect amounts of soup with every bite. Pork char siu just melts between your chopstick and the firm menma bamboo shoots give the bowl a nice crunchy texture variety. Your exhaustion is immediately lifted and you can’t help, but grab the bowl and down the last drop. Not even a mask could hide your smile as you kindly look for the chef’s eyes to show your appreciation.
And this short dining experience is when this simple dish hooks you in. You want more. You want different varieties and styles. So many questions run through your head. Why is it so cheap? Why was it ready so quickly? What exactly was in the soup? How did the noodles stay so chewy? You want to learn the intricacies of how such a simple dish has evolved into the culinary phenomenon it is today and the obsession begins. You’ve made a great first step as this guide will help you as you discover the amazing bowls of ramen Tokyo has to offer.
Ramen actually originates as a cultural appropriation of a Chinese dish brought over some time in the 19th century. Over time, the Chinese noodle and soup dish evolved as chefs started using local ingredients and adapting the flavours to the palette of the growing Japanese clientele. Cooking mishaps, utilization of high-end ingredients, and use of different culinary techniques (to name a few) have resulted in countless styles and variations of the dish. The origins of several ramen styles are sometimes laughable with how they were stumbled upon but have grown to become iconic staples of certain prefectures and areas where it has permeated throughout the ramen scene in all of Japan. In most cases, legendary shops and styles will open locations in Tokyo, the ramen capital of the world, to see where it ranks in the toughest culinary market of Japan. With over 8,000 shops open concurrently at any given time, and 3-400 shops opening and closing a year, Tokyo is the place to get your ramen education.
Before we dive into the specific style and shops offered in Tokyo, we need to go over the basics. Ramen consists of 4 key components; broth, tare seasoning, noodles, and toppings.
Not one thing is more important than the other, but rather all four must be in perfect harmony to make a bowl of ramen memorable. Starting with the soup, the broth and tare seasoning has to enhance one another to find the balance for the ramen to truly captivate you. It can come from a rich creamy pork soup, a bitter umami bomb of Niboshi dried fish, or a combination of the two. The ingredients for ramen broths are endless. No rules here. And in the following guide, you’ll see anything from chicken to pork to every seafood imaginable.
Noodles are the next key component and they must have that alkaline kneaded in to ensure it doesn’t just melt into your bowl of scalding hot soup. The alkaline is what differentiates ramen from pasta and other noodles from around the world. It helps keep the noodles’ shape and gives it a unique flavour that goes hand in hand with a bowl of delicious ramen.
Finally the toppings can’t just be a collection of whatever is in the fridge as you may have done making top ramen in college. Each soup deserves topping that pair with the flavour notes. Again, no guidelines here, but you’ll see that the top ramen chefs will put as much time into the toppings as any of the other components so be aware of how it comes together with the bowl.
Now that you got the basics of ramen down, you’ll have a better appreciation of the ramen shops that follow. Broken down into ten categories, these 30 shops will guarantee to blow your mind and you’ll leave each shop wondering why you’ve never had ramen this good before.
Classic Chuka Soba
The first bowl you’re likely to encounter when wandering the streets of Tokyo is the traditional mom and pop staple, Classic Chuka Soba. More likely than not, you’ll find it presented haphazardly in the iconic red and white, dragon embossed bowl with soup, noodles, char siu, hard boiled egg, menma bamboo shoots, and a sprinkle of green onions sprinkled right over the top.
Broth is usually animal based, either chicken or pork (sometimes a combination of the two) and niboshi dried sardines, with off cuts of root vegetables and onions thrown in to mask the funk of the bones. Noodles are the iconic bright yellow Chinese style that illuminate from the backdrop of the dark brown soup. If it’s your first time ever having ramen in Japan, grab a bowl of this Classic Chuka Soba before you delve in to the different styles as it’ll help give you an understanding of what a traditional bowl of ramen in Tokyo is like. However, don’t mistake this for a basic bowl of everyday ramen as some of these shops draw long queues and loads of regulars on a daily basis.
Sakaeya Milk Hall
For a time slip back into the Tokyo of old, make your way to Kanda for a visit to Sakaeya Milk Hall. Open since 1945, Sakaeya is one of a handful of shops to survive this era due to difficulties post World War II. Not only is Sakaeya one of the oldest ramen shops in Tokyo, they also happen to serve up some of the most nostalgic and traditional bowls of Chuka Soba you can find in all of Japan. Honestly, Sakaeya is far from the best ramen you’ll find on this list, but before you walk around like a hooligan claiming you know ramen after trying a Michelin starred bowl, come to Sakaeya to humble yourself and learn some history and culture behind the dish.
Sakaeya has a few varieties of ramen at ramen including the regular ramen, curry ramen, and a char siu ramen which comes adorned with some extra pork. If it’s the summer, be sure to try the hiyashi chuka, or cold ramen, that they only serve during these 3 months. If it’s your first time, just go for the traditional ramen, with a side of curry for 1000 yen even. The pairing is a ramen shop staple in the 70s & 80s and the tradition runs strong here. The combination of the two is what keeps old patrons as regulars so be sure to get the set.
Chuka Soba Tagano
Next up on your history lesson of ramen should take you to Chuka Soba Tagano in Ebara Nakanobu station along the Tokyu Ikegami line. Open since 1996, Tagano is widely known in the ramen community as one of the hands down, best Chuka Soba in Japan. If you know anything about the hardcore ramen fanatics of Japan, you’re probably aware this title isn’t given out lightly. Only the best of the best are considered to be in the Tagano tier and rightfully so.
The soup here is chicken bone and pork femur tanrei, or light, base and the clear soup is a work of art to say the least. Any ramen chef will tell you how difficult it is to keep a soup clean and clear, but Tagano does it with one of the most difficult ingredients to do so in pork femur. What results is a ramen that feels gentle to your body, but so full of flavor that you’ll find yourself coming back 2-3 times a week. Medium thick noodles are made in house and pair perfectly with their nostalgic light soup.
Tantantei
Finally, make your way to Hamadayama along the Keio Inokashira line to complete your lesson on Chuka Soba. We’ve introduced the oldest and we also showed you the best, but with Tantantei you’ll find the most influential as this shop sits atop a lineage tree of ramen shops that will wow you with prestige. If you’ve ever eaten at a highly regarded wonton ramen shop in Tokyo, more likely than not, their roots can be traced back to Tantantei. An originator of this style, Tantantei is a must go for any who wish to see what a ramen master factory looks like.
Using the moniker Shina Soba, which is a slightly racist, but historic naming of the Chuka Soba dish, Tantantei serves up an umami enriched ramen that has ramen heads salivating even while in line outside. The smell is intoxicating as it floods your nose with the aromas of dried fish and animal stock, but once you get inside, the wontons are what keeps you coming back for repeat visits. Plump pork and shrimp wontons are available, but you need to get yourself the combo of both varieties if you don’t want to leave regretting your order. These pillowy soft dumplings are the perfect accompaniment to your bowl and if you’ve ever had a bowl from one of Tantantei’s disciples (for example, Yakumo in Ikejiri Ohashi), you’ll realize why this is the original and others are simply former apprentices.
New Wave Chicken Shoyu Ramen
Once you have a basic understanding of ramen, move on to what is now referred to as New Wave Chicken Shoyu Ramen. The style is gaining popularity and is characterized by the broth which is made primarily with high end Jidori, or Japanese chicken. Sometimes a bit of vegetables are thrown in, possibly a sachet of negi, but for the most part, and as far as the best shops of this style goes, they use only chicken. The technique is a stark contrast of ramen in the early 2000s when a variety of different chickens, pork, vegetables, dried fish, and aromatics were used to get a flavor and umami overload.
Here, you’ll find an out of body experience tasting chicken broth like you’ve never had before. A dark shoyu tare, or seasoning, flavors the chicken broth as well as a healthy dash of chiyu, or chicken oil, to give the soup depth. Noodles are usually of the thin, snappy, and wheat flour variety while toppings usually include hosaki menma bamboo shoots (softer and stingier top bits of the bamboo shoot) as well as a sous vide chicken and/or pork char siu. Don’t skip on the Ajitama (marinated soft boiled egg) option either as you’re gonna want that velvety, golden yolk oozing into your soup.
Ramen-ya Toybox
If you only have time for one New Wave Chicken Shoyu Ramen, Ramenya Toybox has to be the shop you hit up. Located just a short five minute walk from Minowabashi station, the ramen at Toybox is the very definition of this style. Broth is made entirely of chicken and water, using Nagoya Cochin (the Wagyu beef of chicken) and Shamo (chicken primarily used for cock fighting). Shoyu tare seasoning is a blend of 7 hand selected varieties for the best possible iteration of this style. Chicken and pork char siu are cooked sous vide with a nice snappy, thin noodle to go with.
Toybox also offers Shio and Miso varieties of their ramen, but definitely grab the Shoyu. Tokusei comes with wontons, but at least order the Ajitama option for the creamy, decadent yolk. Give yourself an hour cushion when coming as they do draw massive queues, especially on weekends.
Ramen Sugimoto
Next up on your tour around New Wave is the ramen over at Ramen Sugimoto near Saginomiya station. Sugimoto opened with much acclaim as the master trained under the infamous Sano Minoru, known as the Ramen Devil among the ramen community. Known for his brash attitude and penchant for strict (borderline abusive) teaching, Sano-san instills incredible ramen technique and palette to his former proteges. Sugimoto is no different, pumping out these amazing bowls of New Wave shoyu that puts other shops to shame. The broth is made using a chicken base, but also includes pork backbone and some seafood stock so it’s not entirely chicken. However, the flavors he draws out are exquisite and exemplify balance of ingredients to a tee.
Tokusei version comes with the toppings adorned in the photo above. Again, hosaki menma and sous vide chicken & pork char siu make an appearance with the ajitama soft boiled egg as the usual suspects. The wontons here are amazing with a juicy, plump pork filling so don’t skimp out on your order. The shio, or salt, ramen is equally good, but the Shoyu is their famous bowl.
Tori Soba Yamamoto
A relative newcomer to the ramen scene, Tori Soba Yamamoto is one of the rising stars of this genre. The shop is originally, and still runs as, a premium yakitori shop in the evenings serving some of the best grilled skewers in all of Tokyo. Utilizing their already extensive knowledge of chicken, Yamamoto decided to open up his restaurant for lunch hours serving ramen which he makes from the chicken he has on hand. What results is one of the most unforgettable bowls you can have West of Shinjuku. The shop is a bit far from central Tokyo located just outside the 23 wards, but I guarantee you’ll feel the trip was justified. Mitaka is also just one stop away from popular Kichijoji station so you can kill two birds with one stone by heading there after your meal for a bit of Tokyo sightseeing.
In addition to their fantastic ramen, be sure to order a side of their pork char siu bowl which comes adorned with what maybe the most magnificent onsen tamago, or half boiled egg, ever made. For the full experience, call in beforehand and make yourself a reservation at their yakitori shop open only for dinner service. When you step in for ramen at lunch, you’ll be lured by their fine collection of over 100 sake bottles displayed like a library in the back. Give yourself a chance to explore this sake reservoir with a perfect yakitori pairing.
The Hybrid Shio
In the same realm of New Wave Shoyu Ramen, Shio ramen, or salt ramen, has been gaining popularity with more chefs going back to its roots by making it without the help of soy sauce and rather with different artisanal as well as local, traditional salts. For those unaware of what exactly differentiates Shio Ramen from other ramen varieties, Shio typically uses a higher percentage of salt and other umami enhancers to make the tare seasoning sauce as opposed to a soy sauce or miso. A number of shops will use a lighter, white soy sauce in combination with different salts to give it the extra umami push, but it seems chefs are beginning to push the boundaries to see how far they can take it with just different varieties of salt.
Not surprisingly, Japanese chefs love experimenting and tasting different types of Shio and the result are shops with ridiculous combinations using anywhere from five to as high as nine different salt types to make their bowl of ramen. The hybrid combination of these vast varieties of salts is what the moniker refers to and it has given way to a new brand of Shio Ramen that redefines the idea of “kodawari”, Japanese for “high level, no compromise”.
Ginza Hachigo
Located in the luxury district of Tokyo, Ginza Hachigo caters to a specific crowd and you’ll get that impression as soon as you step into the back of their long queues. Hachigo has one of the most impressive and professional staff ensuring your experience at their shop is the best and highest of quality it can be. Staff will kindly let you know if they have enough soup that day to be able to serve you a bowl as soon as you get in line so as not to waste your time. When it approaches your time to be seated, they’ll walk you to the ticket machine and explain the options available. Knowing the increasing number of foreign ramen fans visiting shops on their visit to Tokyo, the machine has English translations for those without capable Japanese skills.
So what makes this place so special? Well Hachigo does something a lot of Shio Ramen chefs have stopped doing out of convenience; making a shio tare without the help of shoyu. As puzzling as it sounds, making a shio tare without shoyu is a difficult task as introducing umami elements without it can be troublesome. Hachigo breaks those lazy habits and ensures that not a drop of shoyu hits their pure shio bowl. For both the fine dining experience and shio ramen at its fundamental form, Hachigo is a must have on your ramen itinerary.
Machida Shiruba Shinka
A bit far from central Tokyo, but Machida Shiruba Shinka is a classic ramen shop that has topped most enthusiast’s shio ramen lists. Using a number of high end ingredients at every step of the way, Shinka produces what enthusiasts consider the most simplistic, but delicious iteration of the dish. Broth is taken from a combination of whole chicken, chicken carcass, and Ago (flying fish).The salt tare consists of 5 different salts which include Vietnamese varieties as well as Japanese ones.
Two distinct types of ramen are served here at Shinka; the regular Shio Ramen and a Shio Tsukemen. Both are phenomenal and you won’t regret getting either one, but to get the full Shio Ramen experience, go for the regular bowl first. The clarity and beauty of the transparent soup will absolutely amaze you the first time you see it. When you take your first spoonful of the soup, you’ll sit in astonishment and wonder how such a clear soup can have such impactful flavors.
While this is one of the furthest shops in this guide from central Tokyo, it is definitely one that you won’t want to miss.
Menya Sho
Menya Sho is a local favorite in West Shinjuku where it has attracted the countless business men and women sprawling out of the nearby office buildings. Sho has been in operation for over 13 years now which is an accomplishment in and of itself given their location in one of the toughest ramen districts of Japan. Hundreds if not thousands of ramen shops have opened and closed since Menya Sho opened their doors and that speaks to how delicious their ramen is.
What makes the ramen here so special is their Shio tare seasoning. Much like the previous shops in this section, a variety of different salts are combined to make their seasoning tare. Here at Sho, the salts come from France, Japan, Italy, and Mongolia among others to combine with their light, chintan chicken broth. Accented with the curvy thin noodles, the bowl harmoniously comes together for an unforgettable, umami enriched ramen.
Tanrei Tsukemen
In the world of Tanrei Tsukemen, two styles have emerged as the most popular. One is what is widely considered to be the first style of Tsukemen ever, originating out of Higashi Ikebukuro at the now famous shop, Taishoken. Ramen fanatics will know this shop all too well as this is the restaurant headed by the iconic Kazuo Yamagishi, the supposed inventor of the dish. The story goes that staff would gather leftover noodles, collecting them to the side and during their breaks would dip the leftover noodles into the soup similar to how buckwheat soba is eaten. Regulars would see them eating this in the back and asked to be served this dish and Yamagishi-san would soon add it to his menu. The point of contention here is that this staff meal tradition of dipping noodles in soup carried over from the previous Taishoken that Yamagishi-san managed prior to opening the Higashi Ikebukuro location. While Yamagishi-san was definitely the first to serve it as a menu item, the true inventor of the style remains in contention.
Whatever the case, the Taishoken group has claimed the dish’s origin and regardless of branch location, is known as the shop where Tsukemen began. The style has since changed drastically as this original rendition used a light tanrei broth as the dipping soup. While a thicker version picked up in the 2000s, a resurgence of these tanrei tsukemen has made its way around high end ramen shops around Tokyo. A visit to some of these shops may be in order for your next course on ramen history.
Higashi Ikebukuro Taishoken
It’d be difficult to write a Tanrei Tsukemen list and write so much about the inventor of the style without recommending the shop itself. As I previously mentioned, the shop that birthed tsukemen is still in contention, but most have come to an agreement that this Higashi Ikebukuro location is the first to put it up on their menu in the 1960s. Yamagishi-san has since passed away, but the location lives on and is still serving the tsukemen Yamagishi-san perfected.
Of course the ramen to get here is the Tsukemen. Taishoken offers the dish with varying topping choices from extra pork char siu to extra menma bamboo shoots, but the decision is yours if you want any extra goodies. The main course is the Tsukemen and you’ll be greeted with a thin, but flavorful shoyu tare enhanced soup that clings perfectly to the ice shocked, medium thick noodles served on the side. Portions are massive here so don’t get too carried away ordering more noodles than you can handle. But it wouldn’t be a trip to Taishoken without feeling overly satisfied so be sure to get your fill and you’ll grow an appreciation for this iconic, history changing dish.
Uchoku
Another relative newcomer to the Tokyo ramen scene, Uchoku came highly acclaimed when it opened in December of 2018. Good friend of master and chef at Homemade Ramen Muginae, Uchoku serves up a delectable light, shoyu tsukemen that draws lines of up to 50 people on just a normal weekday. So what makes this shop different from the Tanrei Tsukemen birthed by Yamagishi-san over half a century earlier?
At Uchoku you’ll find a much oilier bowl of dipping soup with a shiny coat of aroma oils floating at the surface. Next thing you’ll notice is the darker hue of soy sauce. Uchoku moves away from the classic, brown hue soy sauce tare made famous by Taishoken and moves towards a cleaner, darker, more impactful shoyu that ties the dish together elegantly. Noodles are a bit thinner and served soaked in a konbusui, or seaweed water, to add umami and maintain moisture. The seaweed water is a viscous liquid made from soaking kelp in freshwater. Kelp is a natural umami component and therefore enhances the overall flavors of the tsukemen. The old school Chinese red pork char siu come with the Tsukemen and this nostalgic touch helps bring together the old with the new.
Mendokoro Honda
While not necessarily a newcomer to the ramen scene, Mendokoro Honda is definitely a newcomer to this genre of high quality Tanrei Tsukemen. Introducing their rendition of the dish at their recently opened Akihabara location, Honda’s tsukemen pushes the limit on how complex and exquisite they can make the dish. While other shops have been more innovative or have unique specialties that make them stand out, Honda takes these unique tidbits and find the perfect balance to make the best of these ideas work together in one bowl.
The ramen you’ll want to order here is the Tokusei Shoyu Tsukemen and add a side of “konbusui” or seaweed water to go along with it. Much like Uchoku, the seaweed water adds a kick of umami elevating the noodles. To go along with the konbusui, you’ll be served with ground rock salt and some citrus, this time a yuzu to give it both a saltiness and an acidic flavor profile to the dish. The thin slippery noodles combine with the light, shoyu based soup perfectly and you’ll have yourself wishing you had more.
Thicc and Voluptuous Nouko Tsukemen
One of the things that made Yamagishi-san so famous and so influential is the fact that he took in and trained hundreds of ramen chefs during his time as master of the Higashi Ikebukuro Taishoken location. During that time, chefs like Tomita of Chuka Soba Tomita fame have come and gone through Yamagishi-san’s regimented training and opened their own shop to much acclaim. The prevailing thought many of these chefs had was the fact that, as it got later in the service, the soup would become thicker and more flavorful due to the constant heat stewing the broth. Evaporation would take its course and the soup would reduce down throughout the day resulting in more intense flavors. Many found that they enjoyed the soup later on in the day rather than at the very beginning, and these flavors are what probably sparked this genre of Tsukemen restaurants.
The shop, however, that first took this idea and ran with it was a shop called Ganjya in Saitama. Here they served a thick and viscous tsukemen broth made from a long simmer of tonkotsu pork bone and Niboshi, dried fish, broth. Immediately, this style was met with much acclaim and soon there were ramen fanatics coming from every corner of Japan to try this new tsukemen style. Nowadays, most tsukemen shops serve a rendition of this style. The soup has a more impactful flavor profile and while ingredients can vary from store to store, they all have the distinct, viscous soup that coats thick noodles thoroughly with every dip. Fanatics may already be familiar with this style, but here are three you need to include in your itinerary.
Menya Itto
First up on this tour of thicc and voluptuous ramen is one that many have considered to be the best tsukemen in Tokyo, Menya Itto. Winner of numerous awards and accolades, Menya Itto in Shin-Koiwa is one of those restaurants that changes and shapes how you eat future ramen bowls. While not as thick as some of the others on the list, the soup here is a perfect balance of savory, sweet, acidic, and umami. The location is not quite ideal as it sits an hour or so from Shinjuku, but they do offer a ticket reservation system online to cut on the wait time outside the shop. If you miss out on the allocated online tickets, be prepared to line up at least an hour until you receive your bowl.
While Menya Itto serves a variety of different ramen options, as this section of the guide would suggest, the one to grab is the Tokusei Tsukemen. If this is your first time at Menya Itto, and you’re not planning on any more meals for the day, recommend going for the extra noodle portions. It’s that good, and you’ll regret not having more if you leave with space left in your stomach. The base is a chicken and dried fish base and the thick soup paints a delicious coating on the chewy noodles that’ll keep you coming back for more. Given the nature of the soup, it is rather heavy, but the toppings and accents tone down the bowl to make it a well balanced set. Sous vide char siu slices with minimal seasoning helps cushion the intense flavors of the soup while the yuzu infused chicken meatballs gives the soup an acidic note to cut through some of the fat.
Tsukemen Michi
One of the common motifs for ramen shops and a mantra that has seemingly lived on as a tradition throughout the years of ramen is this aura of fast dining. To be fair, ramen was originally an everyday, working man’s food and meant to be consumed quickly due to the nature of the dish. Let it sit too long and the noodles will get too soggy, or the soup will become lukewarm and not as pleasant to drink. In recent times, this idea is changing and a move towards higher service and a shift to make ramen fine dining has emerged. At times this can be rather odd, being served ramen atop placemats and having beautiful artisanally crafted bowls contain my “everyday working man’s” food. But then you find a shop that finds a balance of fine dining and everyday ramen and you can’t help, but acknowledge the sense of calm and peace you perceive when sitting down for a bowl.
Michi exemplifies the term “Omotenashi” to the extreme. “Omotenashi” is the Japanese word for hospitality and you’ll feel right at home with the utmost service you’ll receive at Michi. Tsukemen here is obviously the choice and the chef will explain every part of your meal as he prepares it so you have all the information to fully appreciate the dish. With the Tokusei, or extra topping option, you’ll be greeted with gorgeous pork char siu, a fantastically radiant soft boiled egg, menma bamboo shoots, and different spices to help enhance the soup. The spices changes by season and the chef will explain it to you before eating, but it is an out of world experience that will leave you begging for more.
Gonokami Seisakujyo
Close to Shinjuku station, Gonokami Seisakujyo is a bit different from the previous two in which they use shrimp for their broth base as opposed to the pork and niboshi soup that is most common in this style. The HQ location for this shop is a restaurant called Itsuki in far west Tokyo. While Itsuki primarily serves a Tai, snapper based ramen, the shrimp tsukemen was so popular that customers travelled from central Tokyo to grab a bowl. The popularity of the dish allowed Itsuki to expand and open Gonokami Seisakujyo serving the popular shrimp tsukemen as the main menu item.
If you’re not a fan of shrimp, this is definitely not the shop for you as all three tsukemen options are a rendition of their popular shrimp tsukemen soup. Options to choose from vary from a shoyu seasoning tare, miso seasoning tare, and a unique tomato version. The recommended option is the tomato as it’s a flavor combination that you won’t likely see outside Gonokami Seisakujyo. The shrimp based broth is mixed with a vinegary tomato to give a Western pasta flavor vibe. To enhance the Western influence, a dollop of basil pesto sauce and a slice of baguette is added on this side. Be sure to try the tsukemen as is first and mix the basil in mid meal to give yourself a flavor change and have the feeling of two ramen in one. The shrimp flavor is outstanding and packs a strong hook as you taste the sweetness and smokiness it draws out. Noodles are nice and thick to soften the intense flavor notes, but the combination is utterly remarkable.
No Soup Mazesoba
Also known as Abura soba, or shiru nashi ramen, no soup mazesoba is a style that has long standing roots in Tokyo with the first shop serving this bowl located in West Tokyo. The shop, Chinchintei, was inspired by soupless Chinese noodle dishes and decided to put a Japanese twist to it by adding local ingredients and seasonings. While not hugely popular at its inception, the style picked up in popularity as more varieties of this soupless method began popping up all around Japan.
In Nagoya, a soupless ramen colloquially known as Taiwan Mazesoba was invented using Taiwanese cooking influences to create a spicy, noodle mixture. Around the same time, a shop by the name of Tokyo Abura Soba opened their doors, serving thick noodles coated in tare seasoning sauce and aroma oils, to much acclaim by Japanese noodle eaters. This eventually led to countless franchises of Tokyo Abura Soba opening and a number of already established shops serving a variety of no soup ramen as secondary/tertiary options. While many standalone no soup ramen shops exist, some of the best are primarily ramen shops that serve this variety on the side.
Chinchintei
Located a crisp 15 minute walk from Musashi Sakai station on the Chuo line, Chinchintei is the inventor of the soupless style and pioneer for what it has become today. The ramen here won’t wow you with it’s presentation (in comparison to the others in this category). However, the flavors are phenomenal especially for something that looks so simple. One bite and you’ll realize how this small idea became the gateway to countless and infinite number of iterations.
The abura soba comes in a bowl with old school, yellow noodles, a thick slice of pork char siu, slice of naruto fish cake, and a handful of menma bamboo shoots. Toppings recommended for the bowl are thin cut negi green onions and a raw egg. Once your bowl arrives, you’ll want to mix the contents of the bowl together thoroughly. Sitting beneath the mound of noodles is a mixture of aroma oils and seasoning tare that needs to bind with the noodles so it coats every strand. If you grabbed the negi green onions, mix them together or sprinkle them afterwards as a garnish. Use the raw egg to eat the ramen Sukiyaki style and you’ll have a taste of what the original abura soba is like.
Menson Rage
Located a short walk from Ogikubo station, Menson Rage is run by a skateboarding aficionado and makes some of the best ramen in all of Japan. Not only did they receive the Tabelog (Japanese version of Yelp) bronze medal for top restaurants in Japan, they also went worldwide getting a Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand nod. Honestly, anything and everything on Rage’s menu will leave you satisfied, but their maze soba is one for the ages. The main ramen they serve is a Shamo Soba which utilizes a chicken called Shamo which is more commonly used for cock fighting and is phenomenal as well. However, Rage’s modern twist on Chinchintei’s concept using stellar ingredients and cooking techniques makes for a Maze Soba you don’t want to skip.
The Maze Soba at Menson Rage is more complex than the Chinchintei counterpart and it includes toppings that are more akin to a regular bowl of ramen. The eye catcher is the egg yolk sitting on top of the noodles which are soy cured giving it a nice salty flavor profile as well as it’s creamy finish. The seasoning tare is soy based with aroma oils mixed in. Shoyu flavors are quite strong, but the chiyu chicken oil pairs with it fantastically. The emulsification of the two makes for a thick coating on the noodles that clings along with every slurp. Chicken and pork char siu, menma bamboo shoots, diced onions, and green onions round out the bowl for an unforgettable bowl.
Sansanto
Much like Menson Rage, Sansanto is a traditional ramen shop that serves a no soup version as a secondary menu item. Located in north Tokyo near Higashi-Jujo station, it is a bit of a trek from central Tokyo, but should definitely be added to your list. The regular ramen is a Tonkotsu Gyokai double soup (pork and seafood blend), but the maze soba is the one you should have your eyes on. Sansanto is only open for dinner service so be sure to plan accordingly. There are a ton of other ramen shops to try in the area, but you don’t want to find yourself coming for lunch and having to kill time until they open in the evening.
Sansanto looks like a bit of a mix between Chinchintei and Menson Rage. However, the flavor profile is one that stands all on it’s own. Not quite as oily as Chinchintei, but also not heavily tare seasoning as Menson Rage, Sansanto has a nice balance of the two flavor components. Noodles here are top notch having a slippery texture that is satisfying to slurp after getting everything mixed together. Be sure to get the extra char siu topping; the meaty, flavorful slices are better enjoyed in multiples. Served cold, summer is the best time to try their iconic no soup masterpiece.
Dirty Niboshi
As you may have already gathered, Japan has gone through its many styles and trends throughout the past 50 or so years in ramen, but the one picking up most in popularity has to be the Dirty Niboshi. Niboshi, or dried fish, isn’t necessarily a new phenomenon with shops like Ito, originally of Akita, making light soup from the dried fish for generations. However, what has been picking up steam is a thicker version of the same concept.
Rather than a light simmer of dried Niboshi, this style takes it a step further adding more heat and even more Niboshi to create a creamy, almost cement like mixture that is brimming with heavy, bitter, dried fish flavors. Of all the ramen styles trending in Japan, this is truly the one that tears people apart as you either hate it or absolutely love it and there is no going in between. If you have a strong dislike of fishy aromas, this might not be for you, but for those more open minded palettes, this ramen might blow your mind.
Nagi
While not the first or most intense of this style, Nagi is definitely the most famous and for any Tokyo tourist, it’ll likely be the most accessible given its location in central Shinjuku. The shop is nestled within the Golden Gai drinking alley district and is a popular spot for all walks of life as it is one of the few top ramen shops open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Although they now have multiple locations throughout Tokyo, you’ll be doing yourself a huge disservice if you don’t have a bowl at Nagi the way it was intended; after a night of heavy drinking in Shinjuku.
Ramen enthusiasts abroad, particularly from the Bay Area, may already be aware of Nagi as they have expanded globally with shops in numerous worldwide locations. However, the one here in Shinjuku serves the aforementioned Niboshi ramen rather than the Tonkotsu ramen they serve in their branches outside Japan. While not quite as viscous as other more intense shops of this genre, it is best for beginners of this style to dip your toes in before diving into the deep end. The bitterness of the niboshi is somewhat mellowed and has hits of pork which round out the soup nicely. Noodles are thick and chewy making it a fulfilling bowl to soak up that alcohol and prevent the inevitable hangover. A bit of spicy sauce is given as a free option and it gives a nice kick that rounds out the bowl perfectly.
Hiwamatanoboru
In the world of ramen, chefs tend to have some unique, obsessive personalities. You need it to work 12+ hours a day, slaving away to ensure the soup is perfect for the day’s customers. Hiwamatanoboru is no different with the chef here having some obsessive musical tastes with popular hip hop group “Dragon Ash” playing in the background. The name of the shop actually originates from the group as well, taking it from one of their famous songs, “Hiwamatanoborikaesu”. Staff typically wear Dragon Ash band shirts and Dragon Ash memorabilia decorate the shop. Ramen here is just as obsessive serving an addictive, thick, cement style Niboshi that many replicate, but can never perfect.
First glance and you’ll likely be turned off by both the fishy aromas and viscosity of the soup. The ramen you need to order is the Noukou Niboshi Soba which is the most intense version of their Niboshi ramen. If you didn’t go to Nagi first, try the regular ramen, but if you want Hiwamatanoboru’s bread and butter, the Noukou is the way to go. The soup is made through a long simmer of the Niboshi dried sardines and a thorough blend at the end to maintain all of the flavors and create a creamy consistency. The umami notes are off the charts as the natural flavors of the fish hit you like a bag of bricks. Be sure to bring your appetite because the Aesoba, or extra noodles, is a must order. Noodles are served with some Gyofun dried fish powder and a vinegar rich sauce that changes up the soup for a second round of completely new flavors.
Ibuki
Saved the best for last as Ibuki is hands down the best ramen of this genre. Talk to any ramen otaku and ask what their favorite Niboshi ramen is and they’ll direct you to this shop located a short walk from Shimura Sakaue station in west Tokyo. Open for both lunch and dinner, they only serve around 150 servings of their ramen a day due to the inability to obtain the sheer amount of Niboshi they go through to make their incredibly rich soup. Due to its popularity, they run out within a couple hours of opening so this is a shop you have to line up before opening to ensure yourself a bowl. Even top ramen chefs consider Ibuki to be one of the best as it ranked in the top three ramen shops of Tokyo as rated by 100 ramen chefs.
The ramen is similar to Hiwamatanoboru, but on steroids. Again, they also have two options; the tanrei or light version and the noukou or thick version. The head chef recommends you order the tanrei version if it's your first time, but even if it is, lie and get the noukou for the full experience. The Noukou rich version is as thick as you can feasibly get while still considering it to be soup. Noodles are rather thin, but are on the lower hydration side which ensures they soak up every bit of the soup while slurping away. The bitterness is subdued a tad in comparison to the previous two shops and that is what makes Ibuki so special. The ability of the chef to draw out every ounce of umami flavor from the fish while limiting the bitterness is a work of art and is what keeps the long lines coming.
Iconic Jiro
One of the most polarizing ramen styles in this guide, some ramen heads will go as far as to say Jiro isn’t ramen. Jirorians, or Ramen Jiro fanatics, will argue otherwise and make their claim for Jiro as the best ramen in Japan. The HQ location is now in Mita near Keio University, but it was originally located in Meguro back in the 1960s. Popularity of the shop grew after their move to Mita as hundreds of college students lined up for bowls of Jiro during their lunch breaks. Since then, Jiro has expanded with a number of noren-wake, or branch locations, approved by master Yamada-san, with 41 shops currently operating throughout Japan. Each shop has a bit of a twist that makes it unique from the original location, but all follow the same cooking styles and basic ingredients.
SInce it’s rise in popularity, a number of Jiro-kei/Jiro inspired shops without connection to the original Jiro have opened across Japan. The influx in shops creating Jiro style ramen has spawned a cult following with people and further popularizing the original 41 Jiro locations. Characterized by the voluminous mountain of vegetables and a gross spoonful of pork fat, Jiro is not for the faint of heart. Soup is typically prepared using pork backbone, pork femur, pork back fat, garlic, and cabbage. The resulting broth is quite heavy, but full of pork flavor that is impossible to stop drinking. Free toppings of yasai vegetables, ninniku garlic, abura pork back fat, and karame seasoning tare are available at each Jiro location. You can order extra of each option by including “Mashi” for large and “Mashi Mashi” for extra large portions. Noodles are typically thick and come in unfathomable amounts so prepare yourself for battle if you decide to set foot inside one of their locations.
Ramen Jiro Mita Honten
Again, if you’re here for a little history lesson on ramen, head to the original HQ location near Mita station for Tokyo Subway riders and Tamachi for those coming via the JR. Located next to the famous Keio University, expect long queues during peak lunch hours as students and professors will join the ramen enthusiasts in line resulting in queues of up to an hour long. In order to see Yamada-san, the founder of Jiro, come in during lunch hours which starts at 8:30 and closes at 15:00. A few of his apprentices prepare your bowl during dinner hours, but it is just as good so the decision is yours as to when to dine.
What makes Mita Honten so special is both the history and the culture of what exactly Ramen Jiro is. A quick google search and you might find a video of what Ramen Jiro looked like twenty or so years ago and it is much different to what you see today. The journey of serving hearty, filling ramen at affordable prices to nearby starving, poor, university students culminated in the bowl you’ll have at Mita Honten. For first timers, get the small ramen. If you order the large and can’t finish, you might see yourself on the restricted list. The abura, or pork back fat is what weighs most people down so don’t go ordering them “Mashi Mashi” if you want to walk out alive.
Ramen Jiro Hachioji Yaenkaido 2
When looking up information about Ramen Jiro, you may find yourself getting results of numerous shops all around Japan. Ramen Jiro has a pretty extensive Noren-wake, or master approved franchise locations, which serve up the familiar Jiro bowls with slight twists at each shop. The process of becoming a Noren-wake is to have worked directly for Yamada-san at Mita Honten. The chef here at Hachioji Yaenkaido is actually a second generation Jiro Noren-wake as his father also operated a shop in Shin Koganei before closing up to retire.
Hachioji Yaenkaido is widely considered one of the top three Jiro locations. Of course personal preference plays a huge role in determining what the best is by the numerous Jirorians (slang term for Jiro obsessive fanatics) online. However, most can say without a doubt this location is in the top tier. Jiro can be broken down many ways, but the most common is by noodle and soup type. For noodles, Jiro is categorized by the thickness and cooking time while the soup focuses on the emulsion levels of the fat. At Hachioji, the noodles are thick and chewy with a pretty emulsified soup. The chewiness of the soup bursts flavors of the wheat flour as well as the pork infused soup that creates a harmonic flavor explosion with every bite. Negi, or the white portion of long green onions can be added as a topping, and isn’t available at other locations so make sure to grab it here. Portions are huge compared to other locations so really think about your appetite and how much you can take down before making your order.
Ramen Jiro Hibarigaoka
Third on the list and another banger among Jirorians is the Hibarigaoka location in northwest Tokyo. Hibarigaoka is home to one of the longest lines of all the Jiro locations, but it’s popular for a reason. Soup is probably the best out of the 41 shops as the pork broth is rather rich while the Kaeshi, tare seasoning is on the sweeter end. Again, the emulsification at this location is quite high and is what draws a lot of Jiro fans. While higher emulsification doesn’t necessarily equate to a better bowl of Jiro, the bowls here at Hachioji and Hibarigaoka, widely regarded as two of the top three locations, swings to that side. For those with an inclination for an oilier feel to the tongue may enjoy the Mita Honten more.
What really pushed the ramen at Hibarigaoka to greatness among Jirorians is the unique noodle. They are a bit thinner than Hachioji, but are chewier as it is cooked for a lesser time. In addition to having the familiar flour used by all 41 Jiro locations, the noodles here have a higher hydration giving it that distinctive texture. The color and hue is on the darker end as well due to the addition of a shop secret ingredient they add to the water before kneading in with the flour. Pairing of the unique noodles and sweet, but pork infused soup makes every minute of the wait here well worth it.
The Michelin Stars
For those of you who don’t know, Tokyo is home to some of the most well regarded restaurants in the world with the city ranking in the top 5 every year in number of Michelin Stars and Michelin Starred restaurants. Ramen is no exception with three shops receiving a Michelin Star with many others receiving the Bib Gourmand distinction.
What you make of the Michelin Guide and it’s rating system, I’ll leave to you, but a ramen guide in Tokyo wouldn’t be complete without the addition of these three, now iconic shops. Each shop will have you transported away from the everyday diner environment to a fine dining experience while serving up some incredibly creative and luxurious bowls along the way.
Japanese Soba Noodle Tsuta
The first to receive a star was Japanese Soba Noodle Tsuta back in their original location in Sugamo. Unfortunately, their star was removed when they moved to their current location in Yoyogi Uehara so a bit of an exception to the list as they don’t currently have a star in hand. With that said, the current shop is miles more spacious, more luxurious, and serving up even better ramen than before, so a return of the star is likely in order this year. Having the star removed might actually be a good thing for ramen enthusiasts as it has shortened lines, but even so, prepare yourself with queues up to 2 hours long on weekends for a bowl of their famous ramen.
What you’ll find at Tsuta is a variety of ramen options from Shoyu to Paitan (creamy broths), using ingredients you wouldn’t typically see in other more local, mom and pop shops. The most popular is the Black Truffle Shoyu Soba which includes a generous serving of truffles over the top of your bowl. The option is a bit pricey so go for their regular Shoyu Soba which is the same bowl sans the truffle. Soup is an animal stock/fish stock mix in a tanrei, or light soup, style. The porcini sauce mixed in mid-bowl will give it a strong aroma and velvety finish allowing for flavor changes throughout the meal that may or may not justify the price point for you. Not the cheapest bowl of ramen you’ll find in Tokyo, but definitely at the top in terms of extravagance.
Nakiryu
Second and still current holder of a Michelin Star is Nakiryu located near Otsuka station of the Yamanote line. Probably the most down to earth of the three shops as it doesn’t wow you with expensive and hard to find ingredients, but rather impresses you with a masterclass on how to make classic noodle dishes. Coming from a culinary background outside of ramen, Nakiryu has some incredible side dishes you wouldn’t normally find in ramen shops so be sure to order a couple of those for the full experience.
I’ll say it again, but Nakiryu is not the place to find unique and decadent ingredients that make up your bowl. What you’ll experience here is one of the best bowls of a variety of different ramen style. The Shoyu Ramen is phenomenal, but the bowl to grab here is the Tantanmen, or the Japanese rendition of the Chinese dish, Dan Dan Noodles. Using their Shoyu Ramen broth as base, the soup includes the familiar sesame seed paste and chili oils to kick up the spice level a bit, but not so much that it’ll be unbearable to eat. The balance of spicy and savory makes for an unforgettable bowl that keeps ramen fanatics lining up for more. Be sure to order a side of cilantro for a freshy, aromatic kick to your bowl.
Konjiki Hototogisu
While Konjiki Hototogisu is the last of the three shops to receive the Michelin Star, it is by no means the worst of the bunch. In fact, some would argue that Konjiki is the best of the three churning out fantastic bowls of clam based ramen at a consistent basis. The original location was in Hatsudai on the Keio line, but after seeing the other two shops receive their stars, Konjiki picked up and moved to their location in Shinjuku, creating a fine dining environment for their shop. Konjiki was one of a number of shops striving for the Michelin Star so don’t be surprised if you see an uptick of restaurants with the vibe and atmosphere like this one.
What you want to grab here is the clam based Shoyu Ramen, but the chef here has a propensity to change up his ramen from time to time so you may not have exactly what is pictured. However, don’t let it deter you. This is just a sign that Konjiki is continuously making their ramen better and this drive is what brought the Michelin Star to begin with. The clam based soup remains a constant though and you really want to have a bowl of it to experience an out of world flavor. The pairing with the porcini mushroom sauce is heavenly and will make your trip unforgettable.
The Misfits
As you can tell, this guide has been organized into distinct categories with a few shops that fit into those specific styles as examples along the way. The following three are a bit of the misfits in which they are in a class all their own.
Of course each of the three belong to a specific ramen style, but there just wasn’t enough high quality shops in Tokyo for the style to have a section of its own. However, it would be a shame if a ramen guide didn’t feature these three ramen shops so here they are in The Misfits category.
Ramen Hiiki (Iekei)
Ramen fanatics are probably already aware of the popularity of Iekei and might be wondering why an Iekei shop doesn’t have a category of its own. The ramen is a style birthed out of combining two types of ramen in one; Tokyo Shoyu and Fukuoka Hakata. The creamy and thick soup of the Hakata combines with the light thinness of the Tokyo shoyu binds together to make this rich, but soothing bowl. The style is immensely popular in Kanagawa, the birthplace of Iekei ramen and home to most of the top shops of this style in Japan. Yoshimura-ya is the originator of the style and has numerous disciples who have since opened their own Iekei shops. For the most part these shops are located in Kanagawa and as this is a Tokyo ramen guide, it felt a bit disingenuous to add these shops to the list. However, Ramen Hiiki located just a short walk from Kamata station in south Tokyo is so good, it just had to be included here.
Hiiki is hand down, without a doubt, the best Iekei ramen shop you’ll find in Tokyo. Many will argue the two Iekei shops in Kichijoji, Musashiya and Budouka, dating back close to thirty years now is home to the two best in Tokyo, but Hiiki which opened a couple years ago runs laps around the two iconic shops. Even the most hardcore Iekei fans who claim Iekei outside Kanagawa aren’t truly Iekei will attest to the quality served at Hiiki. The creamy pork broth is incredibly soothing and velvety to the touch. Noodles are medium thick wavy noodles akin to most Iekei shops, but combined with the decadent soup is simply perfection in a bowl. Fattiness of the soup needs the thick chewy noodle to cushion the flavor impact. Be sure to get a bowl of rice, a common side item served with Iekei which helps fanatics polish off the bowl with a sort of Iekei porridge at the end.
Mouko Tanmen Nakamoto (Spicy Tanmen)
I previously spoke about Ramen Jiro and the intense cult followers they cultivated with the Jirorians. Not many shops have fans as dedicated as Jirorians, but one shop has come close, and may have even surpassed them with a unique marketing strategy and incredibly delicious ramen. Mouko Tanmen Nakamoto has steadily gained followers and fanatics to the point where the owner, Shirane-san has become a celebrity in the ramen world taking pictures with fans on a daily basis. Shirane-san is the mastermind behind the Nakamoto popularity as his skills as a chef and brains as a businessman catapulted the small mom and pop shop to where it is today. Nakamoto was originally run by Nakamoto-san who decided to retire and close up shop. Shirane-san asked for permission to take over and reopened serving up the iconic “Umakara” ramen, Japanese for spicy delicious, we see today. After getting regulars coming in weekly, Shirane-san decided to set up a point card system where prizes can be won for every card a customer filled up. These ranged from small knick knacks like chopsticks and spoons all the way up to bowls and jumpers which are highly regarded by the biggest of Nakamoto fans.
Of course none of this could be possible if it weren’t for the phenomenal bowls of ramen served up at these Nakamoto locations which serve a Tanemen with a spicy kick. You can choose the spice level from 0 to 12 based on location and each spice level comes with unique toppings that makes fans want to try each level. Soup is a tonkotsu, pork bone base and is mixed with chili peppers and miso to give a creamy, umami finish. Noodles are bright yellow and crinkled so the spicy soup will cling to every crevice giving you a fiery mouthful every slurp. If you’re up for the challenge, go for any of the ramen in the 8-12 range. You’ll guarantee to be swimming in sweat by the end, but you might not care after tasting their amazing broth.
Gyukotsu Matador (Beef bone Ramen)
Finally we come to the end and the guide finishes with a ramen style you won’t see often in Japan. Reasoning behind the scarcity of beef bone ramen is unknown, but it could have something to do with the expense of purchasing beef bones in such large quantities. Whatever the case, the few shops that do serve this style make it to perfection. One such shop is Gyukotsu Matador located out towards Kita Senju. The shop is typically a one man operation and each bowl is meticulously made to order. The bowl to order is either the Shio or Shoyu ramen, both prepared with the beef bone broth.
To say the ramen here is phenomenal would be an understatement. Some might immediately think a beef bone broth would be something akin to the Vietnamese Pho, but the soup is on a completely different level. Broth is a tanrei, or light soup, which is flavored with the seasoning tare of your choice. The shoyu gives the ramen an oaky, smoky note while the shio accentuates the fundamental flavors of the beef. What gives the soup the most flavor is the beef tendon which is also included as topping within the bowl. Two slices of medium rare, roast beef is carefully placed atop the thin, chewy noodles making you wonder how they can afford to serve the dish so cheap. Thin cut menma bamboo shoots give the bowl a nice texture variety and you’ll leave with probably one of the most well rounded ramen experiences you’ll have of all the shops on the list. Suffice to say, the best was saved for last.
There you have it, 30 ramen shops you have to try on your visit to Tokyo. In the greater scheme of Japanese culture, Ramen is in its infantile stage, but the evolution of the dish has taken the simple soup and noodle dish to new heights. From chicken to beef to dried fish and much more, the combination for ramen is endless. Ramen is ever changing, but hopefully this list will get you started on your own ramen eating journey.
About the author:
Cody Mizuno travels around Japan to eat, photograph, and write about ramen in his free time. He runs the @ramenguidejapan Instagram account, Youtube, and website.
