Pretty On The Inside [And Outside]- Tokyo's Favorite Makeup Artist Kanako
![Pretty On The Inside [And Outside]- Tokyo's Favorite Makeup Artist Kanako](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/57825361440243db4a4b7830/1688961963459-L1KHFZU2K64TNNKTREVG/Kanako+Cover+image.png)
The future of beauty is ugly…
The handiwork of makeup artist Kanako Shiraishi. This look encompasses what her creativity is all about: challenging beauty norms aka “ugly beauty” yet still maintaining precision and artistry.
Or to add a bit of nuance to that statement beauty right now is entering a new frontier as standards are rapidly changing, venturing towards the eccentric, the “weird”, and frequently taking a nod from East Asia; with beauty-norm-challenging looks originating from Japan, Korea, and China setting the pace of what will become aesthetically popular worldwide.
In Tokyo, makeup artist Kanako Shiraishi is a master of this makeup genre lovingly called “ugly beauty” with a repertoire ranging from extreme to subdued.
sabukaru got the chance to interview Kanako about beauty matters both inside and out. Surprisingly, Kanako’s mindset is pretty nuanced for a specialist in crafting the bizarre. But before we dive in, here’s a short intro to what “ugly beauty” even is.
Makeup artist Kanako is gorgeous in every situation, she’s a master of a genre of makeup called “ugly beauty” celebrating the eccentric. This look features shaved brows, gems, and freckles a few of the features found in the universe of unconventional beauty/ugly beauty.
WHERE DOES THE TERM UGLY BEAUTY COME FROM?
Although the foundations of the beauty industry are often founded in exclusionary beauty ideas which emphasize youth, symmetry, light-colored hair, and European features with pale skin tones [which the Japanese beauty industry is not immune to], this past decade in Japan the spectrum of beauty has become wider, more experimental, as well as more inclusive in the range of cultures, models, and creatives it chooses to give a platform to [although there is still much more to improve upon].
Models from PUMP Management, a Tokyo modeling agency that has a diverse set of models, that have become quite popular in recent years despite representing non traditional talent. Image sourced from @pump_mgmt_tokyo
Tokyo’s beauty scene has incorporated “ugly beauty” into its repertoire for years. Many use the term “ugly beauty” tongue-in-cheek and explore these types of styles to push back against rigid expectations of the beauty industry that have been in place for most of the 20th-21st centuries.
J-beauty is so much more than “mochi-like skin” and cutesy J-POP idol perfection [see: Japanese beauty standards] that has proliferated via mainstream media inside and outside the country.
A handy chart showing examples of common beauty standards in 21st century Japan, a common theme is the idea of maintaining an innocent, pure, natural, and youthful look.
Below are images of popular Japanese beauty icons, fitting conventional Japanese beauty standards, idol group AKB48, model-actress Kiko Mizuhara, actress Nana Komatsu, and idol group Cho Tokimeki Sendenbu.
Characteristics like highlighting and even manufacturing imperfections, prosthetics, or even full-blown fantasy looks for everyday wear have risen out of the shadows and sprung up on the streets of Tokyo, eventually bleeding onto the pages of edgier editorials and Instagram feeds, see brands like rurumu: and KIDILL for inspo.
Now more than ever it’s almost mainstream to rep a contrarian type of beauty emphasizing the “ugly”, especially in Tokyo. Case in point: the bleached/ penciled-on brow takeover of 2022-2023 that is happening worldwide. [See below for proof]
In Japan this “trend” isn’t new at all despite its recent resurgence in Western media. Barely there eyebrows seen on runways and hallways, have roots in many cultures, including a Japanese ancient beauty practice called hikimayu. Exaggerated face paint has been present in Japan since before the Heian period [pre 794]. And full disclosure looks we call “ugly beauty” as a catch-all term, in reality are nothing new to many cultures or a passing trend. These looks whether it be East Asian influenced or not simply adhere to a different set of beauty standards imbedded in non-Western societies but celebrated now in mainstream beauty outlets due to their perceived “unexpectedness”.
The unconventional beauty looks originating from Japan these days that have reached high fashion credibility were initially tied to outsider/excluded communities, such as queer club culture, hardcore anime/manga cosplayers, and hostess/host aesthetics. They are also sourced from nostalgic looks during the golden age of Harajuku street style [1990s-early 2000s] that turn accepted beauty norms on their heads such as Gyaru or Visual Kei subcultures. Like most “new” avant-garde beauty trends “ugly beauty looks” popped up within these disenfranchised groups, then dispersed to Instagram and Tiktok trendsetters, then celebrities, and after transitioned to being seen in mundane everyday settings on non-influencers.
In Tokyo, no special occasion is needed to go above and beyond with a flamboyant beauty standards-defying look. Life is the occasion. In the wake of all these new makeup developments, with Tokyo at the forefront dictating global beauty trends, sabukaru spoke with the Tokyo underground’s favorite makeup artist Kanako [@kanako_makeup], who is equally skilled at doing classic looks as well as more avant-garde ones.
Few people are more beloved or closer to the heart of Japan’s ever-shifting scene of artists, creatives, and fashion than Kanako. She is a rare cultural chameleon who crafts makeup looks for Vogue while still being down for a last minute passion project of a friend. Even when Kanako goes full throttle on a shoot by applying gems, skinny purple eyebrows, or colored contact lenses for avant-garde tinged look, things never look overdone or careless. Everything Kanako does is done with thought, precision, and love. It’s her versatility that makes Kanako one of the best of the best, as well as a trusted authority on what’s happening stylewise in Tokyo and a true source of no-nonsense beauty advice.
sabukaru sat down with Kanako Shiraishi in her cozy Americana decorated Tokyo apartment, to touch base on what “Tokyo beauty” is like now, her “less is more” philosophy, and the next chapter of her life in London.
Hey Kanako, thanks for sitting down with sabukaru online today! Although almost every creative in Tokyo has probably worked or chilled with you at some point, how would you simply describe yourself and what you do to the sabukaru network?
Haha, well… I’m Kanako, a makeup artist based in Tokyo and if I could describe my style it would be fun, creative, and playful. That’s my style.
What kinds of things did you get up to as a teenager, in terms of your interests in music, art, or pop culture? Are you still obsessed with those things today?
I grew up in Fukuoka, Japan. In a town called Kitakyushu. So it's really not like Tokyo, it's more chill.
We have so much nature, so I was always like running around as a kid. My grandparents used to take me to the museum or exhibition every weekend. Nature and art were always around me. I was always drawing or doing calligraphy and stuff. I genuinely loved art and also music and watching movies, and because my mom was working all the time I had a lot of time to spend at home or outside with my brother. We used to go to a video rental shop, and just rent all these anime and foreign movies. We’d just spend the whole day watching movies and stuff. I still love watching movies and all of those things.
Sotsuran uniforms AKA modified delinquent uniforms worn by "teenaged rebels" most popular in rural areas of Japan
Tokkofuku uniforms aka modified tactical work clothing worn by Japanese biker gangs called Bosozoku. Although not everyone who wears this type of clothing is a criminal, it has strong connotations with gangs/illegal activities in Japan. Uniforms like these were often sighted in Kanako’s hometown of Kitakyushu
Kitakyushu is really famous for yakuza. Everyone bleaches their hair and looks very gangster. Some kids dress in Tokkōfuku, or like a sotsuran, a typical Japanese school boys uniform that has decorations. Yeah, people would wear these gangster like uniforms to graduation and ride on a motorcycle. It was that kind of city.
Oh really, what do these uniforms look like?
They have like sewing and… it’s kind of crazy. You know deko trucks? It’s that kind of thing. I come from a very “yakuza” town, it’s like all these kids trying to show off and stuff. Haha yeah, everyone knows my town as a Yakuza town. So it’s mostly like Yankee kids, and they aren’t allowed to actually come into the graduation dressed like that but they just sort of hang out near the school gate. They aren’t actually like Yakuza, they are just dressing like that. [Laughs]
So it's more like a cultural thing in your town that inspired you aesthetically ?
Yeah, people from my town also often customize things like cars or motorcycles. And then we also have the Yamakaza Matsuri [traditional folk festival], everyone dresses in like traditional clothing, plays the drums and stuff, and we have these floats that are amazing.
Everyone from my town was very open, friendly, and always supporting each other.
Even Yankee [a type of delinquent subculture] people join in, because it looks so cool. Yeah, so I think I gained a lot of inspiration from where I grew up.
What kind of things did you do outside of school?
Yeah so I did a lot of sports, but also calligraphy for eight years, I kept doing it and you have to pass a test to get a certificate. We had a test every month, and then you keep taking it to go up a level. And then to get your license you have to go up all the levels. So it took me like 8 years to get it, because there are so many tests and the rest just happens in just a month.
Make by Kanako making use of her background in calligraphy
You're very connected to all subcultures, not just in a business-y or professional way just as a makeup artist, but as a true part of the community. A lot of personal friends are your collaborators whether it's as a model or a designer you work with. How did you become a part of Tokyo’s creative scene?
Haha, well I mostly met them through Shibuya parties, I’d just pop by and talk to people. And, sometimes you know it turns into work. Or I meet them at work, because when I’m doing makeup I’m going to talk to the model the whole time. Makeup artists are probably the closest to the model. So, we just become friends and pop up in the city again. Or my friend ends up being friends with them. Tokyo is so small, and everybody knows each other. The vibe is the same, and so we just got close to each other, it’s just simple.
What spots do people go to? What are the reccs you give if someone wants to be a part of the culture?
I only go to shoots. I don't know! [Laughs] I mean I only go to Shibuya, I like Shibuya a lot.
I just love to walk around and I like to go to different bars and meet people because everyone's there every weekend. I don’t have a favorite bar or favorite place to go. I just like the Shibuya area because everyone there is doing something creative. And there’s new people to have conversations with…that's really fun to me.
I never go to Shinjuku because it’s too chaotic for me. Maybe I like Shibuya because of the neon that Shibuya has… [that stuff is] close to my hometown’s [vibe] maybe a little like dekotora or that kind of culture. It’s also a bit messy [laughs] so maybe I feel a bit comfortable in that!
Do you feel like Tokyo is home now?
I love Tokyo, but it’s kind of a place where I go and I’m “switched on” to do something I’m passionate about. Back home it’s way too chill and there’s not much to do, so I’m going to be a bit lazy. But when I’m in Tokyo, there’s so many things going on so I think okay, “I’ve got to do this”.
Where do you like to hang out in Tokyo when you have nothing to do [aside from Shibuya]?
I love to go to the park and do nothing. Just walk around and feel the nature and just chill a little bit. Just like put your phone down, and cut off all the information. Walk around and get the sunlight. It makes me feel alive again.
How do you find inspiration for the makeup looks you create?
I usually get inspiration from things I see in my life. Anything can be my inspiration. Just even walls, or the texture of walls [laughs]. Even movies, music, or people and the things people have said. Sometimes [ideas] even come out in my dreams. And I have to write it down and then I do it.
Anything I experience can be my inspiration. So, I love to do so many different things like makeup, by meeting different people and just going out for a walk around I can find inspiration. Or when I'm really “down” I get so much passion, I don't know why but if something bad happens then I always feel like I want to make something with this passion.
Do you keep a diary? Or do something to keep all your ideas?
No, I never do. I’ve always tried and always wanted to since I was a kid but it never works. I just use memos, I just put one word.
Makeup by Kanako utilizing stick-on decorations on top of a luminous simpler look
Makeup by Kanako on Aisho Nakajima @aishonakajima
Are there any beauty or style icons you are obsessed with?
I actually love what Steve Jobs has done [with design]. He makes products really simple. For anything, making something simple is the most difficult thing to do. So, I am amazed because I am doing art makeup that can be very messy, you can always add more. But I realized that doing less is very important to make something perfect. If you do everything at the same time, it doesn’t look beautiful. You have to do less, make things simple. So, Steve Jobs gave me a lot of inspiration.
How did you find your way into the fashion and beauty industry as a professional makeup artist?
So right before I graduated high school, I had to make a decision about what I was going to do, because my teachers were asking “Are you going to go to university or…?” I didn’t want to go to university because there was really nothing there I wanted to study there. But, I always knew I wanted to do something with art for my career. It was easy to choose because if you work in some field, you’re going to spend half of your life doing it. So, for me it has to be something I’m passionate about.
Winged makeup by Kanako
I love drawing, but I wasn’t advanced enough at it to become a painter. So I was thinking, I know how to use a brush after doing calligraphy for 8 years. I was unsure, but I told my mom “Okay, maybe I want to go to makeup school” and she supported me. And I tried, and then it worked! [Laughs] That’s how I ended up in this industry.
I went to a makeup school in Fukuoka, but they taught only makeup, not makeup and hair. You need to get a separate license for hair. At the same time I always love traveling and meeting new people. So I was planning on saving up money and traveling around after high school. So I was traveling around, doing jobs in each place. I moved around for 2-3 years after graduating from makeup school. I decided to go to New York or somewhere, and I just saved up my money. But then COVID happened. I thought “What am I going to do?” so I ended up in Tokyo because it’s the biggest city in Japan.
Makeup by Kanako for DIESEL, one of the many brands she has done runway and editorial looks for
Well, what's the creative scene for makeup in Fukuoka?
Yeah, so Fukouka doesn't have any creative scene. Like there’s not even too many photographers, they do commercials or weddings a lot. But not too many creative shoots. So I used to buy a digicam or film camera, and ask a model to shoot with me. I used to do all the styling, the makeup, and the hair. Because I didn’t find any photographer so I just did it myself.
What’s step one of becoming a makeup artist, especially for someone that has no experience?
The first step is skincare for sure, then they teach you about the “skin process” things from the textbook and practice on each other. It’s just the basics.
But, you know that’s really important because if you can’t even do the basics you can’t move on to other stuff. I think our school was a bit unique, because for us anyone could go. Someone who's 40 years old or like a teenager were in the same class, and you just book an appointment and just go whenever you want to go. We didn’t really have “class-class”, always just practicing makeup on people and doing self study.
Makeup by Kanako for @kitgats
Speaking of skincare, I always wanted to know in detail what the “Kanako skincare regimen" is. What are your recommendations as a makeup artist?
So, I’ve had asthma since I was a kid so I have really sensitive skin. Super super dry skin, so I can use any strong products. I usually use super natural products or like something made by a company alongside a dermatologist. And if I have a pimple, it’s okay I just leave it. Because it doesn’t really matter, it’s natural. Personally, I think that as much as you put things on from the outside, if you don't like change from inside, it’s not going to change well.
Like if you eat well, sleep well, take vitamins, everything comes from the body. So you can put anything on the skin, but it’s really just going to change things for a moment and not the long term.
I mean I do a face massage on myself, it helps me to wake up and to relax. But I really just do a cleanser and a cream. That’s it. I got into this industry because I love art, I don’t have a huge obsession with cosmetics.
Is there anything like a product or something you are a big fan of?
I like Hada Labo, Revitalizing Moisture Lotion. It always works for me. I’ve been using it everyday for many 8 years now. I also really love Marc Jacobs beauty. You can’t really buy it in Japan, but you can get it online. They are really good at eye shadows and highlighter. I also love the packaging. It's simple but still sick. I don’t really like “too feminine” designs, but Marc Jacobs… I just like everything about it. And the eyeshadow stays all day long, and those are some of my favorite products for sure!
Are there any designers you gravitate towards?
I like clothing, but I don't really have any obsessions. But, I think Prada would be great. I love black, the shape is really beautiful, it’s very “straight”, both men and girls can wear it. The silhouette looks so beautiful and simple.
Are there any movies whose style has inspired you?
I really like Leon The Professional. I’ve watched it so many times. I love the texture of the film, the story, and the fashion.
What I like about movies is that it’s far from reality with a bit of truth. It has to have a balance.
What is your dream collaboration? If you could work with any designer who would you want to work with?
Okay, obviously Marc Jacobs. Especially since it’s my favorite cosmetic brand. And I like how they create their art as well. It's really unique and simple. I just love the style so I’d love to collaborate.
Well I hope someone reads this and makes that collaboration happen!
What is a beauty myth that is widely believed but that you want to debunk?
I’d say that mixing all these different ingredients from all these different brands, and just doing, doing, doing it all…I just personally think you should stick to one or two brands, and keep your skin routine simple.
Because the stuff you put on your skin, everyday, it will have an impact 10 years from now. When you use makeup remover, it has so many chemicals and makeup doesn’t always come off completely, [small amounts of makeup] stay on your skin. Just don’t add too much, do less, and stick to a few products from one or two skincare lines.
What is your definition of beauty ?
Doing anything with love is what makes something beautiful. If you don’t have love, there’s nothing. To do makeup with my love, or just talk to my friend with my love. That makes everything beautiful I think.
What is Tokyo Style?
I can’t really say… that’s too hard. Everyone is different. We can do Harajuku style, more punk style, a simple really skater style, we have so many types of style. I feel like everyone can dress however they want. It’s Tokyo!
I like something very comfortable but sexy at the same time. But not something too feminine. Usually something tighter on the top and on the bottom something easy, boy-like. That’s my style, a mix of boy and girl.
What is one item you can’t live without?
No objects. My friends though [Laughs]. Someone I can trust. They support me so much emotionally and physically, like..I just appreciate them so much.
What’s the next chapter in your life, what are your next moves?
I’m moving to London this summer, and I’m so excited! I just want to experience new things, new people, I genuinely love to try new things to grow. I never want to stop growing. So, I’ll try some new things whether it’s art or just life.
Tokyo is going to miss you Kanako, excited for all the projects you’lL do next in London!
please come back eventually, we need you!
Words and transcription by Ora Margolis
Select Photos by SAMO
Unspecified photos from Kanako’s professional account or Pinterest
Article Layout by Ora Margolis
