Nailed It! - A Sabukaru Guide To Tokyo Nail Artists
Japanese nail art goes harder than almost any other form of nail art found around the world.
Nail art by @tomonyan55
Sure, that’s not exactly an objective opinion but if you take a quick glance at the fingertips of most women [and increasingly men + everyone outside the gender binary], you will literally see works of art including full scale portraits of anime characters, sculptures of Sanrio icons, or extensions with dangling piercings on the fingers of everyone from office ladies trying to express their creativity on the low, to the full out bizarreness of Gyaru nails curbside in Shibuya, Roppongi, and Shinjuku.
Gyaru nails in all their maximalist glory [Images from Pinterest]
Now, outside of Japan, in LA, Paris, Berlin, and London there are salons branded as doing “Japanese nail art” and non- Japanese celebrity nail artists who have taken heavy inspiration from kawaii and decora styles from the 00s-10s [see Jenny Bui as an example].
Celebrity nail artist Jenny Bui, who is NYC based but takes inspiration from Japanese nail art. Photo from @nailson7th
Japanese nail art isn’t a new phenomenon. There are instances of nail decoration spanning pre-modern times in a variety of East Asian cultures,Japan included.
The first nail dye was developed in China around 3000 B.C and made out of gelatin, crushed rose petals, as well as other natural dyes to stain nails red or pinkish.Around 600 B.C, Chinese nobles grew their nails out long and encased them in long gold plated “finger guards”.In Japan’s Edo era around [1603–1867], a fashion emerged called あかづめ meaning “red claw or nail” where fingertips were dyed red with natural materials as well.
Examples of gold and silver encrusted nail guards found in amongst Chinese nobles
This inventive streak from the past, where nail art is elevated to fine art, has influenced the elaborate designs you can get in Tokyo today. However, booking a nail appointment in Japan can be different from what some are used to. Here are a few things to remember: A set can take over 2 hours to complete, pricing is somewhat unpredictable, charges are given per each individual charm, gem, and type of extension used so make sure to confirm the cost before moving forward! Lastly, not uncommon for a custom set of nails with multiple designs to be over 200 USD if not more.
A set by @hiro.sucre
Here’s a round up of Tokyo nail artists and designs in no particular order that deserve a shout out. In most cases, an appointment can be made by DM-ing a nail artist on instagram or booking through their salon’s page listed on the popular website hotpepper.com
Tomoya NAKAGAWA
Tomoya Nakagawa’s work looks more like a space age weapon crossed with an aquatic adventure than a set of fake nails. Swords, glass shards, and drops of falling water all make appearances in abstract form within his designs. Nakagawa’s connection to the sea and nature makes sense, as he worked as a fisherman for years after trying out more traditional office jobs that just didn’t make him feel fulfilled.
Eventually Nakagawa branched out into the realm of nail artistry around 2020, during the pandemic’s prolonged quarantine.He found a strong following for his designs shortly after. Partially inspired by his partner, a fellow nail artist, as well as his love his glamorous friends styles during the height of Gyaru subculture [Nakagawa was a Gyaruo AKA the male counterpart to gyaru as a teenager].
Nakagawa took the leap to become a full time nailist/creative and rapidly arose to the ranks of celebrity nail artist, creating pieces for well known names such as Lil Nas X, Rina Sawayama, and Saweetie. Taking nail designs to the brink of what’s actually functional [serious props to anyone able to use a touch screen while wearing his nails] Nakagawa’s work uses 3-D printing to craft more intricate nail attachments as well as hand shaped ones.
Taichi Yamane
Taichi Yamane’s nail art could easily pass for fine art, and that’s because in addition to wearable designs he’s a multimedia artist making full scale collages and oil paintings.
Knowing he wanted to become an artist as a high schooler, Yamane taught himself the basics and then moved on to learning the intricacies of nail art at home using the internet and whatever references sourced from his daily life as components in his designs. Taichi’s art is often influenced by the concept of recycling, abstract undulating shapes, space gray colors mixed with pinks and greens merging an imagined universe with things commonly found in nature.
Moeko Nakamura is a Japan-based nail and formally NYC located artist whose minimalistic but never boring designs play with geometry. In her own words inspired by “stripped-down” beauty, she wants to focus on transformation and minimalism rather than dumping everything she can find into her nail designs. In her work sharp spikes, circles, and other unexpected shapes emerge from the surface of her clients nails almost like the sensation of something hidden underneath, rising to sea level.
Nakamura’s work is subtle and based off years of trial and error with new techniques. She learned to do manicures professionally in junior high while growing up in Okinawa. Using primary and basic colors like red, white, and black, she doesn’t rely on gimmicks for her designs. Plus, her work is proof that nail art doesn’t need to be over the top or hyper cute to be interesting.
Saya
The unashamed excessiveness,bling,and humor that Gyaru nails brought to the world of nail designs has a special place in many’s hearts, and may be exactly what you think of when the word “Japanese nail art” is brought up. Recently modern Japanese nail art is leaning towards more lowkey designs much to the disappointment of maximalists out there.
Luckily, there’s still new artists like Saya that are revamping and renewing Gyaru inspired nail art. Saya purposefully aspects of Japanese nail art we know and love within her gonzo designs replicating everything from plastic bags, luxury handbag logos, Sanrio characters, and even the names of her clients in the form of handmade chunky attachments to inches long extensions. Saya seemingly does her designs for the thrill of it and no request is too wild for her to make a reality.
Mayu
Tokyo based nailist Mayu’s designs play with texture and color, giving the effect of an artful oil spill, a Milky Way-like cosmos, or a gothic geometric fantasy, somehow futuristic but delicate. Smack in the middle of dark and cute, but wearable from people of all subcultures. In her own words Mayu pulls from shibari [Japanese rope bondage] imagery, horror movies, the supernatural, and metallic textures.
With a huge range of versatility, Mayu is as much known for her designs as for her personality. At first meeting she makes you feel like she’s a friend you’ve known for a while. Although her work closely aligns the gothic tribal/geometric designs we see popping up around Tokyo, Mayu is all about customization, and fits designs to her customers' personalities- whether you are in the emo mood or want something that’s a glitter bomb.
SUCRE Nail Salon
Sucre is the most name most dropped salon in Tokyo, recommended by get their nails done religiously to those delving into it for special occasions. Largely credited with influencing nail art’s pivot from kawaii-centric designs to today’s more abstract art themed concoctions, Sucre dreams up some pretty high concept designs by drawing influences from post-apocalyptic landscapes, amorphous blobs, galaxies far away, ecology and modern art.
Plus their designs can be extremely functional and avoid being overly flashy. There’s a huge range from the simple to fantastical offered. Pretty much every nailist from this salon deserves their own spotlight however Ema and Hiro are some of the most requested.
HIRO
Hiro is the creative director of sucre, the salon credited with jump starting J-nail’s evolution towards modern art-esque abstract designs.
Hiro’s work is multi-dimensional playing with using stencils and silhouettes for transparent shapes that let light shine through them.
The cut outs are surrounded by a pearly base and for a final layer, she adds 3-D charms in a variety of metal-like tones. Her designs are an artful throwback to the golden age of Gyaru nails and a pivot forward incoprorating newer elements. Equally comfortable doing experimental and classically cute designs, Hiro is frequently recommended as one of Tokyo’s best.
Ema
Ema’s nail work is highly requested because it seems like she can do it all. With the precision of a portrait artist she can draw ukiyo-e like drawings of Geisha and Kabuki actors, while pairing these intricate nails with solid pointy claws in muted greyish/blue tones. She also can hand form nail attachments like look like modern art sculptures, lockets, and musical notes, proving she has a steady hand and expansive imagination by fusing grunge, Y2K, and the bizarre in perfect harmony.
Images via @nailsgogo
Nailsgogo specializes in hyper extended acrylics, fluorescent colors, and heaps of charms imitating logos or someones favorite objects. The salon leans into the tropes of Y2K Japanese nail art with mastery. A favorite of veteran Gyaru and neo-Gyaru [even endorsed by the Gyaru Bible “egg magazine”] who still appreciate a long day at Shibuya 109, many of Nailsgogo’s sets throw in a heavy dose of crystals, crowns, hearts, and stiletto nail extensions.
Colors BEAUTY SALON
If you want a perfect replica of your favorite anime character or J-pop idol in nail sized proportions, Colors in Akihabara is the place to go. The salon is known for anime/manga tribute sets [called itanail] that celebrate your otaku obsessions. Watching the salon’s nail technicians hand paint your selected design it’s almost like they are practicing an artistic like version of surgery by deftly handling a small brush and equally tiny palette of colors to fit in as much detail as possible on a tiny nail.
Words by Ora Margolis
Photos sourced from nail artist’s own instagram profiles and Pinterest
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