A Taste of Naples in Tokyo
A gastronome's paradise, Tokyo is famed for its rich and diverse food culture that goes beyond washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine).
Bonding over a shared passion for the finest culinary experiences, the sabukaru team linked up with Italian magazine @outpump on this food adventure. The article was published in the latest outpump magazine, which is scheduled to be restocked on October 31st.
Wander around the city and you'll find a large number of first-rate yoshoku (western food) eateries. In fact, when it comes to perfecting foreign dishes while adding a little local flavor, few, if any cities in the world can compete with Japan's capital. The Neapolitan pizza is a fine example of this.
Pizza was introduced to Japan after World War II, though for decades most Italian eateries in the country focused on the Roman-style, thin-crust variety. Things started to change in the 1990s when the classic Naples pizza, made with a Japanese twist, was introduced to Tokyoites. It slowly grew in popularity and has exploded in the last decade. More and more restaurants throughout the city are serving the simple pizza with a tender, pillowy crust. Many of these establishments are AVPN-certified (Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana; “The True Neapolitan Pizza Association”) with the diplomas proudly on display in their shops. Though often viewed globally as budget street food, the Neapolitan pizza in Japan can be quite pricey and is sometimes saved for special occasions.
The most famous Neapolitan pizza establishment in all of Tokyo is unquestionably Seirinkan, which featured on David Chang's Netflix travel and cooking series, Ugly Delicious. The television personality and founder of the Momofuku restaurant group said, "The best pizza in the world is in Tokyo," after visiting the popular shop. It's run by Susumu Kakinuma, a legendary pizzaiolo who was once described by CNN as "Tokyo's prime minister of pizza," and is often credited as the man responsible for bringing the Naples-style pizza to Japan.
"I wasn't particularly into food and drink when I was younger," says Kakinuma. “My interests were in old music and cars, both of which inadvertently influenced my career as a pizza maker. The reason I first went to Italy was because of a young lady who worked part-time at an Italian car shop I often visited. We started going out and she took me to her hometown of Naples in the summer of 1983. I couldn't believe we were having pizza for breakfast. I remember the nostalgic feeling when I took my first bite. It tasted like something that would go well with old music, particularly the Beatles."
Kakinuma now had what is known in Japan as his ikigai — his reason for being. He went back to Naples in 1994 for a year intent on learning from experts how to properly make Neapolitan pizza. Unfortunately, restaurateurs saw him more as a Bruce Lee-lookalike than a potential chef. Nobody gave him a chance meaning he had to learn the concepts by himself which he did by eating as much pizza as possible. He then returned home in 1995 and established Nakameguro Savoy (now a chain of restaurants, though the original shop was later reopened as Seirinkan) which served just two kinds of pizza — margherita and marinara. Using Japanese ingredients and a "salt punch," they were unlike the pizzas you'd find in Naples and completely different from anything in Tokyo.
"Those early days were the most exciting," recalls Kakinuma. "I didn't know what I was doing, but people in Tokyo knew nothing about Neapolitan pizza so it was fine. At the same time, I think there was a fascination with it due to the history. That, I'm sure, is one of the reasons it has become so popular here. For me personally, though, it was important to do things my way. My sauce. My cheese. My pizza. That's often what happens in Japan. We like to take ideas from overseas and turn them into our own."
The pizza at Savoy inspired a new generation of highly-skilled pizzaiolos. Shogo Yamaguchi, for instance, used to sit at the counter of the shop with a pen and paper in hand to take notes on what the master was doing. He has since gone on to open Frey's Famous Pizzeria in the trendy district of Roppongi in Tokyo. A cozy eatery, it has attracted many high-profile guests including Dave Ellefson (Megadeth) and Howie Dorough (Backstreet Boys), with the latter calling it "the best pizza in Japan."
Other famed apprentices include Kengo Inoue, who now runs the renowned Pizza Dada in the old capital of Kamakura just outside Tokyo, and Daisuke Nakamura, owner of the equally respected pizzeria Bacar Okinawa in Southern Japan. After writing to Kakinuma to learn from him, Nakamura subsequently passed on his skills to Tsubasa Tamaki, who opened Pizza Strada in 2011. He then handed the reins over to his apprentice Hiroaki Kaneshiro before opening Pizza Studio Tamaki (PST) in Roppongi in 2017. For centuries the evolution of Japanese traditional crafts and food has been rooted in its master-apprentice system. Clearly, it’s a culture that’s very much still alive today.
Of course, sometimes the apprentice surpasses the teacher(s) and some would say that's been the case with Tamaki. The Neapolitan pizza at PST is often described as the finest in Tokyo. The owner may never have been to Naples, but his passion for his profession is unquestionable. Everything at his restaurant has been planned meticulously, from the design of the oven (which is lower down to stop the air from getting trapped) to the type of wood being burned (always Japanese). Some ingredients he imports from Italy, others he acquires from Japanese farmers. When it comes to quality, though, he never compromises. It always has to be the very best.
"I was at Savoy for five years, briefly under Kakinuma, but mostly learning from Nakamura," remembers Tamaki. "It was a great experience, but I've moved on and created my own style. The flour, for example, is a PST original. There are also different ingredients and I try to bring my own inspiration to the pizza, which I’d describe as light and not chewy. I've never tried what you'd call an 'authentic Naples-style pizza,' so it's hard to compare, but I think what possibly makes Japanese chefs different is the philosophy of omotenashi, which is about putting everything you've got into something to ensure your guests have the best experience possible."
For pizzaiolos like Tamaki, Nakamura, Inoue, Kaneshiro and Yamaguchi, it was always about much more than just casually observing their masters in the hope of learning some trade secrets. It took years of dedicated service to reach the heights they're at now. From the outset, these shokunin (artisans) were all determined to take their pizzamaking skills to the next level. They worked night and day and watched intently to pick out the smallest details from their teachers. It was then a case of developing their own styles to create Neapolitan pizzas that would stand out from the rest.
As for the actual restaurants, there’s a variety of styles in terms of décor, often with an Italian influence. Kakinuma, however, decided to go down his own path at Seirinkan with Beatles memorabilia scattered throughout his store. Pizzeria e Trattoria da ISA, run by three-time World Pizza Champion Hisanori Yamamoto, is a no-thrills eatery with a lively atmosphere, more like the kind of restaurant you’d expect to find in Naples. Then there’s Pizzeria da Peppe Napoli Sta’ca, owned by Naples-native Giuseppe Errichiello, which is decorated in blue, paying homage to two-time Serie A champions, S.S.C. Napoli.
There are also several intimate dining establishments specializing in Neapolitan pizza that are popular date spots such as Bella Napoli. Often regarded as a premium product, the famous Italian dish is a popular choice for couples hoping to enjoy a romantic evening in Tokyo. And given the effort Japanese pizzaiolos put in to perfecting their craft, why shouldn't it be? It goes back to what Tamaki described as the philosophy of omotenashi and the desire to go that extra mile for their guests. These chefs are extremely passionate about what they do and that is reflected in the food.
“Some pizzaiolos learn their trade only in Japan, others go out to Naples to study, but for everyone, the goal is the same. It’s about bringing joy to your guests,” says Kakinuma. “Music consumes your ears. Art your eyes. And perfume your nose. Food, on the other hand, is an entire sensory experience. It goes through your body and then exits it. It's a piece of culture that speaks to all. There’s something unique about it and that’s why I love doing what I do.”
Written by Matthew Hernon
Photography by Natsuki Ludwig
