Anime, Video Games, and Canadian Suburbia: A Conversation With Paolina Russo
Nerd, geek, and otaku. Some of you may be all too familiar with the frustration these words made one feel growing up. Once words weaponized against quiet fandoms, now rather complimentary, the connotative value intrinsic to these words are changing at a moment's notice. Comics, video games, and anime are as pop culture as it's ever been and there has never been a better time in history to call oneself a nerd openly.
A progression in pop culture where people from different backgrounds across the globe continue to intermingle and establish new points of view, it's hard not to be excited about the potential of creativity, especially in the fashion industry. Of course, not all creation is created equal, notably in a creative discipline as heavily commercialized. We often do not encounter clothes that shift our ways of seeing and garments that tingle our imagination. But when we do, it's no more nor less than magical.
Anime, video games, and a multicultural suburban childhood embedded in her design language, Canadian-born designer Paolina Russo is a name that may ring a bell to some. A graduate from the esteemed Central Saint Martins with a final collection that propelled her to stardom, the Canadian designer has since been making waves with cutting-edge garment designs and genre-bending aesthetics.
Sabukaru had the opportunity to chat with one of this generation's most exciting designers and talked about her roots, current obsessions, and aspirations. Check out what she had to say below:
First off, thank you for taking the time to chat with us. Can you please introduce yourself to the Sabukaru Network?
Hi!! My name is Paolina Russo. I am a Canadian designer based in London U.K., working under my namesake womenswear label Paolina Russo. Our brand is focused on exploring the boredom and nostalgia of growing up in the suburbs of Canada. Influenced by home crafts, team sports and video games, I would describe the look as “Suburban Warrior”.
Congratulations on your Fall 2022 collection. Familiar yet drastically different in impression from your past collections, you mentioned that this was an opportunity “to show the breadth of [your] world.” What was different in the creative process?
I think a big thing was opening our colour palette, looking at natural and mélanged colours as well as exploring natural fibres in contrast with a look that could be described as futuristic. We also had the opportunity to work very closely with our knit developers, which we weren't able to do during the pandemic. Being able to work in a physical way where I could touch fabrics and adjust things with my hands made a world of difference, and I feel there is a lot more of my hand in this collection than before.
We love that you cited The Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild as one of your inspirations for this collection. Who’s your favourite character from the game that’s not Link, and why?
I have a few, like I really love the villagers in Kakariko village, especially Paya and Impa. I think them as well as the villagers in Rito village massively inspired me when designing the collection. But in terms of favourite characters, it would be Princess Mipha. She was the first Champion I freed when beginning the game.
We understand that you grew up watching anime and playing video games. Are there particular anime/video game series that has stayed with you to this day? Ours has to be Solid Snake from the Metal Gear Solid series.
Inuyasha will always be my number one favourite anime of all time. It was really my gateway into watching anime, I used to sneak out of my room to watch at 1am because that's when it used to air on Canadian television. I also am a big fan of the Melancholy of Haruhi Suzumiya. Video game wise, definitely all Sims games.
Once a subculture reserved for nerds and weirdos, today celebrated by many around the world. anime/video games are front and center in contemporary pop culture and this is no different in your body of work. What is it about anime/video games that strike a chord with you?
I think I always enjoyed the imagination and fantasy that watching anime and playing video games gives you. Especially growing up in the suburbs, there wasn’t much variety in activities, and I wasn't surrounded by art or fashion that you might see in cities. So, anime and video games became my source for this and allowed me to imagine my own world outside of my reality.
What are you watching/playing right now?
Noragami, Attack on Titan, and always playing Sims 4!
Hatsune Miku’s feature on Notion Magazine. What was it like having one of the world’s most famous vocaloids wearing your pieces?
So cool! So sad I wasn't there on the shoot to meet her :’) She was probably one of the first viral artists I watched/ listened to on YouTube, so I was definitely making my younger self proud!
We understand that your mother is Filipina. A personal observation, but the recent collection was somewhat reminiscent of Canadian sweater weather attire and a mix of Filipino tribal symbolism, resulting in a cozy yet sharp aesthetic.
That’s a great observation! I think that that could be very true. I take huge inspiration from personal history and lived experiences. I grew up in households where Canadian and Filipino cultures mixed - where we were both wearing Canadian craft knits and toques as well as practicing traditional Filipino dance and dress for family get-togethers. There is a really interesting balance between the Canadian sports aesthetic and Filipino traditional dress that I think works really well together.
You’ve mentioned how your personal history is a great source of inspiration, but what else inspires you? Are there patterns to what kind of things excite you as a designer?
I mean, naturally, because of my mixed heritage, I have a rich source of influences and references that have come from growing up in a family like mine -half Filipina and half Italian, as well as growing up in Canada. But I also have a huge passion for knitwear and technical knit development which comes from my studies at Central Saint Martins. I am obsessed with wool; it's a fabric that has existed for thousands of years as well as being an extremely sustainable fibre for textile production. I really want to push natural fibres and use them in a contemporary way. Such as exploring my signature lenticular illusion knits but with natural wools which feel comfortable on the skin. I think there's a lot more to explore in terms of the idea of futuristic fashion with natural fibres than with synthetic ones, and knitwear allows that for me.
What are some of your favorite homemade dishes you enjoyed growing up? A team member of ours grew up in the Philippines and their mom makes a mean Pork Adobo!
Haha, amazing! I make a really good Chicken Adobo, but my mom makes it better. I also really miss having my Lola’s (grandma’s) Empanadas and Pancit. I think my all-time favourite meal is Longanisa with fried egg on rice. My favourite breakfast, lunch or dinner.
Your first big break came from your CSM BA collection in 2018. As sneaker enthusiasts, we were obsessed with the upcycled corsets made up of old sneakers/cleats. A collection deeply embedded in your personal history and aspirations. After all the champagne and rewards, as it stands, what does the collection mean to you, today?
That collection was the first foray into the world I wanted to build. I feel very proud of the work I was able to create as it was truly a very personal exploration into my upbringing and even more surprising that people understood so quickly. It's really gratifying to create these connections and to create a community of people who related to the work. Also, there is so much from that collection that has gone on to become the foundation of the brand, such as the upcycled sports armour, lenticular knits and suburban sports and craft influences.
A quick scroll through your Instagram feed reveals your taste for drawing. It’s not surprising that you originally aspired to be a painter. If you can imagine not being a fashion designer, are there other creative disciplines you have found to be interesting in your journey?
I think I originally wanted to be a painter because growing up I wasn't aware of any other jobs that existed for creative people. So, in the beginning it was painter or graphic designer. But coming to London and being exposed to the opportunities that lie outside of that was really liberating. Though, if I wasn't doing fashion design, I would love to explore filmmaking and directing.
From upcycling sneakers/cleats to your obsession with z-coil sneakers on Instagram, is it safe to assume you’re somewhat of a sneakerhead? If so, what are some of your all-time favourite sneakers/footwear?
I am definitely obsessed with shoes for sure, I have more shoes than clothes and generally collect shoes even if they aren’t my size. I really love the classics, like the Adidas Superstar and its variations in my opinion is one of the coolest sneakers of all time. I'm also building quite a large collection of Puma Mostro Alto Boots at the moment!
We couldn’t possibly speak to you without mentioning your collaboration with Adidas. From having your illusion knitting produced on a mass scale to having several original footwear made, it must have been a dream come true. You’ve mentioned that you had a lot of creative control over the collaboration, but what were the challenges of producing products for a larger market?
It was such a dream come true to collaborate on a collection with adidas Originals and to have their support and trust. That experience was a whole bunch of firsts for me: designing a fully ready-to-wear commercial collection, working with a team, and I personally wasn't making the clothes but instead working with a factory. I think the challenge for me was truly learning fast, and I really did, and I would credit that to the amazing team of women who worked on the collection with me!
From working with big names like Adidas and John Galliano to developing illusion knitting, you have been thriving on the cutting edge of fashion. A signature style that pushes boundaries found nowhere else, how do you want your aesthetic to be seen/worn by people today and in the forthcoming future?
I want people to interpret it for themselves. I really love seeing how people work the pieces into their own wardrobe to fit their personal style.
We’re fans of your work at Sabukaru, but what do you have your eyes set on for what’s next? Any clues for what we can expect from you?
We are working on our next collection and are bringing new people and collaborators onto the team who are bringing new and exciting perspectives to the brand.
Lastly, any word of advice for anyone aspiring to follow in your footsteps as a designer?
Take your time, listen and learn from those trying to help you, collaborate and find your own community of creatives you want to work with. On that point -creating something good isn't about working with the most established people or massive budgets, but working with your peers who share similar visions and intentions.
Thank you so much for your time!
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Kensuke was born and raised in the Philippines, and is always looking to be amazed by cool people and things.
Instagram: @cauliflower.zip
