How to Build An Empire - sabukaru in conversation with NO/FAITH Studios
Not long ago, it was not only standard procedure but almost required to undergo extensive academic education and craftsmanship training to pursue a career in fashion. However, a young generation of designers and entrepreneurs has challenged the industry and its traditional ways in recent years. Among these trailblazers is Luis Dobbelgarten, the visionary behind NO/FAITH STUDIOS, a brand that emerged from a small town in Western Germany and is making a significant impact on the fashion world.
We sat down with Luis and the brand’s women’s wear designer, Moritz Himmler, to discuss their successful denim collection, the valuable lessons the industry can learn from them, and the crucial role of the internet for emerging brands.
The journey for NO/FAITH STUDIOS began quite humbly. While still enrolled in school, Luis began printing block letter slogans on T-shirts in a style reminiscent of Helmut Lang before transitioning to printing on Carhartt jackets and Converse Chuck Taylors. With a short side project detour in the form of an archive fashion reselling page, Luis steadily worked to shape NO/FAITH STUDIOS and followed his vision for the brand. His sense of aesthetics and understanding of internet culture did the rest.
What hasn’t changed over all this time is the boys’ loyalty and love to the place they are from - the Eifel in Western Germany. The region definitely isn’t a well-known spot on the fashion map - to say the least. Nevertheless, the brand always kept its roots a vital part of the design process, most prominent in their latest collection that circles around the “Eifel-Therme Zikkurat.” In that way, you can say that NO/FAITH STUDIOS put a small town named Kommern next to the big players Paris, Tokyo, Seoul, Los Angeles, New York, and Milano [as a poster campaign states]
NO/FAITH STUDIOS’s story exemplifies how the democratization of the fashion industry and the rising impact of the internet and social media have transformed the landscape. Luis's journey with NO/FAITH STUDIOS is a prime example of this evolution and stands out as one of the most successful and well-executed cases. As mentioned earlier, the growth of NO/FAITH STUDIOS extended beyond business; it also encompassed the team's skill development and elevated expectations. Initially, Luis produced clothes typical of a streetwear brand, but he quickly advanced to mastering pattern design, fabric research, and tailoring, eventually achieving a level of craftsmanship comparable to high-end haute couture.
Especially in the early days, brands that emerged not from traditional design education but from strong aesthetics and compelling Instagram feeds often faced a negative reputation. These 'internet brands' were synonymous with uninspired designs, poor quality, and the fleeting nature of fast fashion. To understand the shift towards a more positive perception, we need to examine several trends that emerged during the 2010s:
One trend that already started in the 1990s was the growing intersection between music and fashion. Yet back in the day, rappers and artists bought the garments of brands that looked down on them. Artists such as Kanye, Puff Daddy, and Pharrell changed that particular narrative by building their respective fashion brands and closing the gap between the two industries.
Another important factor is the way we consume on the internet and information in general. While the data consumption at the beginning of the public digital age was only text-based, humanity moved towards an almost fully visual data transfer. Algorithms and big corporations pushed that trend so that you essentially have to be successful on the internet to be successful in selling your product, to put it bluntly.
The third reason combines the first two points perfectly: Virgil Abloh played a significant role in changing the fashion industry's perception of self-taught designers and creative directors. While it's overly simplistic to credit him entirely, he undeniably set the standard for the modern 'creative director.' As a creative jack of all trades, he paved the way for young designers into a world that never was open to people from the outside. When Louis Vuitton appointed him as artistic director, the marriage between 'DIY - streetwear' and 'conservative high fashion' was perfect.
You could provocatively argue that the designer was succeeded by the creative director.
However, whether you like it or not, you must acknowledge that influencers and creators have made their mark in the fashion industry, playing a crucial role in a brand’s success by connecting with audiences in an organic and highly personalized manner. NO/FAITH STUDIOSth Studio understood the power of the internet, because it was born thanks to the WWW. However, Luis and the team never lost sight of the craft and especially lately are making waves with their one-of custom outfits for some of the biggest artists of our generation.
Hey Luis, Moritz, thanks for taking the time to speak to us. Can you please introduce yourselves to the Sabukaru audience?
Luis: Hi, my name is Luis Dobbelgarten, I’m 23 years old, from a small village in the german Eifel and I’m the founder of NO/FAITH STUDIOS.
Moritz: My name is Moritz Himmler. Im 24 and Im also from the Eifel. I joined the design team over two years ago with focus on womenswear.
Luis
Moritz
What driving factors led you to start NO/FAITH STUDIOS?
Luis: Starting from scratch:
Growing up in a small village really limits the possibilities to get in touch with creative people and the culture that comes with it. As Skating was my first passion it not only helped me to develop discipline but also allowed me to get around and connect with young people from all over the world. Visiting my first Skate camp when I was 14 years old exposed me to screen printing shirts, which I loved straight away. My first purchase after finishing the camp was a screenprint machine, which I financed by selling Jordan 4s. From there on the driving force was always the need to create something.
From printing on Chucks and Carhartt jackets over creating distinctive bespoke denim items to custom-made pieces for Drake, Travis Scott and Ye - could you take us down memory lane and highlight some of the significant moments along the way?
Luis: The last years passed in the blink of an eye. From the start of recreating Carhartt looks and mainly printing on existing clothing to our latest collection 233 I had so many eye-opening defining moments and highlights along the way.
Fast forward to the beginning of the year 2021, I met my Friends Christ and Luca, who worked for me as models from now on.
Later this year I first connected with two photographers Louis Mack and Lola Mansell, who happen to be one of my best friends, Partners, and supporters these days. The first night we all came together ended up in a crazy adventure through Paris, everybody dressed up in NFS. Louis and Lola were capturing it. The pictures that were created stand alone. Embodying youth and movement. 5 Friends coming together to enjoy a night in Paris. You could almost touch the feeling when looking at the pictures. A feeling that from now on is defined by two words NO FAITH.
Along the way, especially my friends from my area, Eifel really supported me. I can remember nights of “Packsessions”, where we finished over 600 Parcels with 15 people. In November of the same year, I met Mo in Paris, we immediately clicked and realized that we live 20 min apart in the Eifel. From there on we started working together creatively and we slowly but surely formed a creative team of 2. We designed together and started to share the same vision.
The first collection we worked together on was mainly with local-based pattern makers and tailors. It was really hard to find the right ones. Understanding our vision and having the skills to realize our ideas was a big challenge.
After the flared denim dropped end of 2021 a shoot with Louis Mack in March probably changed No Faith forever. 12 homies from Paris were being shot on the rooftops of Paris. Everyone was wearing the flared denim. The results were stunning.
From now we basically prepared everything for Raum 233 our next collection.
From first ideas, over little scratches to the final products. Moritz and I flew to our Leather production in Italy and we are happy to say, that we produce in the same factory as Channel and Rick Owens. The quality is on point and especially the people behind it are loving and passionate.
At the beginning of the year my brother joined the company and is now the executive director of the company. It was a great relief to delegate all operative processes to a person I trust.
Moritz: Our latest collection NATIONALPARK EIFEL was an homage to our home, the Eifel.
Military-inspired, with new prints on denim and leather. Especially the Eifeltherme Zikurrat, located next to our studio was referenced in many pieces.
In September our interns Clara Rathke and Henri Trambow joined the team and helped us in all matters
The looks for Travis and Drake were something new for the whole team.
Artists that we have been listening to for over a decade, now in customs of NFS - quite hard to believe at first. We figured that these two looks let us reach out to a wider audience, especially in the American market. The custom fit for Drake was made with the help of our intern Henri Trambow, who now joined the team after 6 months of internship
Denim is experiencing a resurgence, and NO/FAITH STUDIOS seems to have understood that from the beginning. What is it about denim that makes it so interesting to you?
Luis: For me, an outfit built around denim, it is the most important piece of clothing and it speaks for itself. You can wear a plain white shirt and some old fucked up boots.
If the denim has the right fabric and cut, the outfit will be on point.
Denim is supposed to be timeless and the aging of it makes it even more interesting and strong.
A good pair of denim will outlive you.
Many people think that your options with denim are minimalized, but for me, it’s the clothing piece that you can change up the most. Prints minimalize you, even if you have two different designs it’s still a shirt with a print. For Denim you need unique shapes, wash, and details to make it stand out. That’s way more complicated than you would think.
Can you tell us what your design process looks like and where you get your inspiration and influences from?
Luis: Our design team is really small. It’s just my best friend Mo and me. I’m working in the position of the Head designer, while Mo is focused on womenswear.
But in general, we are creating the vision for everything together. Sitting on my Glass table in the middle of nowhere in the Eifel helps us to create and to put together moods.
Our design process is really natural. We try to create after the Credo of No Faith.
Strong and timeless Denim and rough Leather. Every design has to fit into this.
In our design process, we often have different opinions, but we can always agree on the fact, that No Faith should not be less experimental or different from the rest, just to be more commercial and beneficial.
Defining the root of my inspiration is really difficult. It comes intuitively. I take a lot of photos of inspiring silhouettes and try to create what I love.
When Mo and I have design sessions we love to listen to Sade. It creates a good atmosphere to create.
People walk by and I see the best sun-fade shirt on an 80 year old man. It’s probably a regular shirt for everyone else, for me it’s a challenge to create this type of sunfade on a denim or jacket.
As a self-taught individual, how did you acquire the skills needed for cutting patterns, sewing, and other aspects of your craft?
Luis: Basically I am doing everything besides the sewing process of the product.
From fabric research, over design idea, first scratches, final tech pac, measurements, everything done by Mo and me.
Its funny how I developed a sense of intuition for the length of certain distandes, For example when I tell Mo, the sleeve is 85 cm long, just by looking at it, its almost always right.
At the beginning I also wanted to learn pattern making and tailoring, but the success of No Faith outgrew these possibilities. We need top tailors, that are doing this profession for decades.
In today's fashion world, do you believe obtaining a university degree is crucial and did you ever consider attending one?
Luis: You will learn a craft in university, but they can’t teach you inspiration and uniqueness. I can speak to University Alumnis and they tell me your clothes are not that good, because those measurements are wrong or you should have done it like that. I mean yeah I`ve could, but people love it so why should I change it. Don’t get me wrong, education is important and for a lot of people it’s the right way, because you get guidance, but I was never into theoretical stuff.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of being self-taught in the industry?
Luis: My work ethos is unorthodox and against every kind of norm. Being self-taught is probably one of the biggest reasons why I am where I am today. I developed every part of the brand and made so many mistakes to make them and again to finally stand in a position where I can delegate work to other people. Eventhogh it was not always easy for me to delegate work in the past I realised that it is truely a blessing to have the opportunity to give young creatives, the eg. finished university, a job.
When I realized that working with people that actually gained education in eg. Photography, Design or Tailoring is super beneficial for both sides. It was a big step for my company.
Of course it sometimes needs more time to creative if you dont have 100% of the abilities to create a piece of garment, but nowadays I just see it as a chance to work with talented people.
Besides that, especially the business part was hard for me to control, because I have almost zero education regarding that matter.
Luckily my big brother Leon started working for me in the beginning of this year. He studied international Business and worked in the music industry for the last years.
I am really grateful to have him by my side.
Social media has played a significant role in democratizing fashion and giving attention to a new generation of creators. On the flip side, many of these brands are stigmatized as "Influencer-brands." How important is social media exposure for a brand like NO/FAITH STUDIOS, and how do you deal with such stereotypes?
Luis: For me Instagram is a great platform for young creatives to showcase art and connect with people all over the world. There wouldnt be NFS without social media platforms.
It all started with fitpics. People showed interest in my persona, which all lead to NFS in the end. Obviously it is important to outgrow the status of an “instagram brand”.
Especially in our design process Moritz and I are really focused on covering a huge target group. Its important for us to cover a 16 year old that knows NFS through instagram, but at the same time we also want to address people that are the age of our parents, people that have taste and appreciate a new approach to fashion and art. Knowing this we also design for a target group that is more divers than just an “instagram audience.” Instagram gave me the opportunity to build up my small team, that hopefully grows in the future.
NO/FAITH STUDIOS has expanded beyond solely printing shirts. At what point do you think one can call themselves a designer? Do you think we need to rethink the idea of what a designer is?
Luis: I mean everyone is a designer nowaday, but for me a real designer is someone who creates an idea from scratch. I don’t see myself as a designer either, those people play in a higher league. I’m more of a creative person.
Do you think it is easier to start a brand today compared to a few years ago, and if so, why?
Luis: Yes, starting a brand was never that easy. Social media, especially through the raise of Tiktok over the last years, can be an accelerator for a young brand. That didnt exist a few years ago.
Besides that also artifical intelligence becomes often plays an important role for upcoming brands nowadays. From Generated Logos to designs, the options here are limitless.
This also supports creating and interacting with a community. For example our Pop up stores are only promoted via Social Media and the rush is insane.
How did growing up in the Eifel, a region outside major cities in Western Germany, influence your creative processes and work?
Luis: There’s not much to do, which means I can focus 100% on my craft. The environment is not made for young adults, more for families and seniors. So I stayed at home every weekend and worked on my brand. I think I had no distractions for the last 6 years.
On the other hand it’s not a good place for connecting with creative people. Nobody here is into fashion, that’s why especially in the beginning of NFS I travelled often to Cologne, Paris and Berlin.
sabukaru for NO/FAITH Studios
Credits:
Production @bianco_bianco_tokyo
Producer @martaespinosa__
Directed by @luis_dobbelgarten@mociielo
Producer Assistant @novpaku
Photographer @_tanase
Model Miyu @myu_wy
Do you believe it is necessary - at some point - to eventually relocate to a major city in order to elevate NO/FAITH STUDIOS to the next level?
Luis: I mean to build up a team, with good people it is probably necessary, because nobody wants to move here. But I think a company doesn’t need one particular location. I don’t have to be in a major city for 365 days, even if some people that work for me are living there. The big advantage that those cities have is that you can be spontaneous. If I want to shoot something small I have to plan it, because I need to find models, a photograph etc. In Berlin I would do three calls and everyone would be ready in the next 3 hours.
Moritz: In October 2023 we found a studio in Berlin, that helps us to have a second location for shoots and campaigns. As for example the “ In Case of Emergency Break Glass” Campaign that we did beginning of 2024. Its easier to create shoots in a big city, hair styllist, photographers and models can be found more easily out there. But we remain the brand from the Eifel and stay here most time of the year. We figured its easier to create in a calm and quite place.
NO/FAITH STUDIOS is often lauded for its coherent visual language, e.g. in editorials - how do you plan your collections. How important is the communication around the actual product?
Luis: For me the product should not need an explanation. Especially Louis Mack understands how to create a coherent visual story around the products.
We are working with many different photographers, but Louis Mack is the one that fits to our brand the best.
What factors do you attribute to NO/FAITH STUDIOS' success ?
Luis: Consistency.
While NO/FAITH STUDIOS now has its own women's wear line, your clothing is embraced by individuals of all genders, exuding a unisex aesthetic. How important is the concept of gender in fashion?
Moritz: Fashion is for everone and should never exclude anyone Some pieces have more feminine energy than others but every piece of clothing is addressed to everyone.
NO/FAITH STUDIOS - against recent trends - hasn’t collaborated with anyone yet. Is that an active decision and if so, why?
Luis: If the right brand contacts us we are more than open we any kind of collbaoboration in the future. For me it was especially important in the first years of Nfs to create an own brand image that can stand alone and has strong character. Now that we have slowly established the brand, a collaboration with an OG brand would be more than interesting.
Do you observe a trend in the fashion industry where brands veer away from traditional craftsmanship for the sake of high-profile collaborations with commercial partners like Netflix and Fortnite?
Luis: Moneygrab. We do not stand for high-profile collaborations but for the product itself.
What’s your take on musicians, actors and other influential figuers creative creative directing products, collections and whole brands instead of trained designers?
Luis: I embrace being creative in different sectors. People shall try out new things. And be creative in what ever way. Stopping to try out new stuff will bring you nothing but stagnation in development
As mentioned before the term designer should be new defined differently in my opinion.
But no one should be judged for creating an outlet of emotions.
You recently designed custom made products for some of music's biggest stars. How did this come to live and how much creative freedom do you have in a process like that?
Moritz: The stylist of Drake and Travis contacted Luis and explained which look they are trying to achieve. Then it was a ongoing exchange between Luis and the stylists. From choosing material, over getting to the design and actual realazation of the looks
NFS success probably also came with a lot of changes within the internal infrastructure. How did your roles also change over time?
Moritz: To be honest it’s still pretty much the same as in the beginning in terms of the main team.
Same positions as in the beginning. Leon is doing the whole operative part and after 1,5 years in his position really has a leading position now as the executive director. Without him the brand couldnt exist anymore. Our two interns Henri and Clara joined the team in September. So in total we are forming a team of 4 now.
Please show us your three favorite reference items of all time. Can be everything and not limited to fashion.
Moritz: For the last collection it was really the Eifel Therme Zikurat, the Spa of our Chil Hood. its so nostalgic to us. The second reference might not be an item but KH Cologne, a Fashion enthusiast from Cologne in which Store we love to spend time and talk about the history of fashion and his eventful past.
via © Eifel Tourismus GmbH, Dominik Ketz
Beyond that we loved the trip to Tokyo last autumn which gave us insights to a new culture and a new way of living
From your perspective, how influential can small brands be in shaping the fashion industry?
Luis: Young brands shape the next Generation…By being free of industry relations and politics, young minds shape the future. Sometimes naive, but always with hunger of being seen.
What should big fashion houses learn from NO/FAITH STUDIOS?
Luis: Community over marketing. Community is the best marketing
You already gave a lot of insights throughout the interview. But what advice do you have for aspiring entrepreneurs and those who have recently embarked on starting their own brands?
Luis: Stay true to yourself and never rest on your success! In the last year I had to realise, that pauses and breks are as important as the hustle. Delegation is important and unavoidable. Try to build a team with people you can trust. And at the end of the day the product you create must speak louder than the communication behind it. Try to create new stuff, that the world needs and has never seen before.
Classic last question: What’s next for you?
Moritz: We currently working on a new collection that is going to released in Summer 24, we enjoy the process and are hyped to realize the project.
We went to Naples twice to source new materials and to accompany the process of the new collection.
Words and Interview by Peter Obradovic
Photos [if not mentioned otherwise] via @nofaithstudios, @luis_dobbelgarten, @mociielo and @fixbi
