Humans Need Nature - ryaw AUTUMN/WINTER 2022 "biophilia"
For their AUTUMN/WINTER 2022 collection, Japanese brand ryaw takes a dive into the relationship between nature & humans.
ryaw is no stranger when it comes to conceptual themes. The theme & title for the collection, "biophilia", is a hypothesis that suggests humans have an innate instinct to seek connections with nature and other living life forms. In a busy metropolis like Tokyo, it is often easy to forget where we come from and get lost in the artificial concrete jungle. In a hope to create garments that can be worn & have the wearer feel a sense of vitality, ryaw's A/W 22 collection takes inspiration from structures in the wild.
One of the key elements of this collection is the VEIN material. Being highly inspired by the veins of a leaf, this fabric is something only a brand like ryaw can create, unable to be mass-produced. Parts of Nylon fabric are heat-shrunk, something unable to be done by machines in factories, replicating the vein structure of leaves. In fact, designer Manamu himself applies the heat-shrinking process to every single item, before the fabric is sent to production. In this collection, you can find the VEIN material used in the VEIN Bag and VEING Vest.
Another ode to nature is the Kaiko JKT. Kaiko, which means silkworm in Japanese, are moth-like insects that create silk. In order to create this jacket inspired by Kaiko, designer Manamu raised one himself, observing and learning the life of the bug. But rather than the jacket using silk, the fabrics chosen include fake fur and corduroy, almost imitating the silkworm itself.
For the lookbook, ryaw took to a closed-environment plant factory, a mix of human-artificialness and nature. Manamu went to countless factories in Japan to seek the perfect one, one where they allow humans without protective equipment. The end result is a narrative we've never quite seen before, something very ryaw.