ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Based in London, Bonnie Carr is a Designer preparing for post-grad studies in [technical] Menswear. Working across Spatial Design, Curation, Tech and Fashion, Bonnie draws from a wide spectrum of subcultures to bring deep reference to her Design ideas. We are stoked she’s contributing to Sabukaru as an output for her research, while she throws her knowledge into creating her first ‘Adaptable Garment System’. The column’s called Not For Archiving™

Follow @bonniecarr - her IG is great. Ok here’s the first piece.. over to Bonnie

CIMORO_

High Tech, Avant-Garde, Bespoke Sportswear: Beyond function

Crafted in London with micro-focus. CIMORO merges simplicity, ultra-performance, functionality and contoured aesthetics with a pay-it-forward ethos towards our planet. I chatted with Alasdair Leighton-Crawford [Founder] to find out a bit more about our future master craftsmen.

Can you introduce yourself to everyone? Your background is pretty diverse

Hi, my name is Alasdair. I’m a Technical Developer in soft goods and apparel who began as a professional athlete. After Sport I became a tailor and sportswear developer and have worked on diverse projects in the field of advanced developments for Wearables.

So I began working on Savile Row at Maurice Sedwell where I learnt to hand sew and baste first fittings for customers. After I moved into bespoke, making custom shirts for clients. This led me to London College of Fashion where I studied Sportswear Design. I won a few industry projects including working with Nike and Sony. I’ve worked with UK Sport, McLaren F1 and Applied Technologies. Also Paramo Clothing which makes ethical and sustainable outerwear, where we won an ISPO gold award in 2018. Since then I've worked on brand projects in Europe - including Black Yak and other high profile, prestige sports brands. Now I have finally moved into hi-tech sportswear and accessories development through creating CIMORO [an acronym taking the first two letters from City, Mountain and Road].

You founded CIMORO in 2016. The range you have created are objects of beauty

Was the aesthetic an important part of the creative process, or is it driven more by usage and striving for environmental balance?

The key focus with this small, very niche brand - is to create aesthetically functional products that are highly useable and made from advance materials which are strong, durable and lightweight. Being super low volume means that the carbon footprint is minimal and all the materials can be recycled/reappropriated at their end of life.

You specialise in Dyneema®

which is fair to say, the lux end of technical fabric particularly regarding its strength-to-weight ratio and price point. Did you eliminate other technical materials on route - Spectre Fibre, Cordura, Pertex etc.?

Dyneema® is expensive yes, and fairly niche both based on its price and on its applications. Some of it’s strengths are also reasons it is difficult to scale products for mass-market [which is good and bad]. As a technical developer, I’ve worked deeply on product development which has included eliminating Spectre and Cordura - although I have worked with many advanced qualities of Cordura which are super durable, from the lightweight through to the nearly indestructible. Also Aramids and flame retardant materials as well as differing qualities of Pertex.

How many hours are we talking to build a CIMORO pack? As you’re completely bespoke

Well the packs on the website are all made to order and take between half a day to a day and a half to put together – you could say this is a labour of love!

“I adapt the products for customers needs based on communication during the making process as everyone who gravitates towards the brand has a particular take on what they would like.”

So this really is technical bespoke at macro level..

Outside of this – I’ve made Dyneema® waterproof jackets, down garments and sleeping bags. I’d say the sleeping bags take the most time – as the compartments are individually stuffed by hand. It can get messy with super hi-fill power down!

We both have an interest in the personalisation of Dyneema®

Do you think that its appeal, beyond its technical robustness -is its almost immediate change in surface after use? Individuality plays a big part in peoples purchases, even if the reason to buy is a genuine need for waterproofing or next level strength. CIMORO provides not only the tech spec, but the chance to really make it yours..?

Completely true – Dyneema® is a laminated sandwich of the filaments with a mylar and abrasion resistant face such as polyester. Because of this, the structure of the fabric “breaks in” and this does give it a unique visual aesthetic which is part of the ownership experience. That said this look is not for everyone.

Yeah, you have to accept although the form and function remain perfect, the character will quickly evolve, similar to how skin ages, but more rapidly :]

Hows the near-future of bespoke technical clothing looking?

Are their specific issues you want to solve or hope to contribute answers to? What’s your focus in this respect?

Bespoke technical clothing – a century ago was common place, but unfortunately it’s decline was a part of the industrial revolution where mass-production outcompeted this very expensive form of singular making. That said there has been a resurgence of interest in building one-off pieces for people - But the largest growth sector is in areas where the expertise are valued.

Yeah I’m assuming growth in areas such as Climbing, Extreme Sports, City Couriers, perhaps practises where danger or physical pressure is involved. So interesting..

As far as solutions, priority is limiting our negative impact on our planet. One of our best strategies to halt global warming with positive social and environmental effect is the planting of trees [find out more at weforest.org]. CIMORO plan to plant as many as we can afford, as well as focus on social and environmentally responsible projects.

You began with packs. You’re offering bespoke clothing now too?

eVent 3M Jackets, padded Winter gear..

Yes that’s correct but you have to ask :] – CIMORO hasn’t got any garments on the portal.

What are next steps for CIMORO? Is their someone you would like to collaborate with?

Firstly, going a bit more digital with 3D visualisations of products and more immersive. At the moment, I’m doing a collaboration with a friend in New York City on running packs, vests belts and accessories. Its under a collab called @litework.studio, check it out. I’m always open to collaboration – as long as they work and are mutually beneficial – we all learn from one-another.