NEW UTILITY: A CONVERSATION WITH STEPHEN MANN & TARO RAY FROM AFFXWRKS
sabukaru is excited to team up with innersect to present the next generation of players in the functional fashion realm. Dubbed “Section 31026”, sabukaru will host 10 of our favorite brands at a 700m2 booth at the upcoming convention from January 15 to January 17, 2022. Celebrating this special occasion, we’re presenting each brand through an in-depth article. Welcome to Section 31026. Welcome to the functional future.
New AFFXWRKS brand mark update starting FW21
If there is a brand that exemplifies functional wear owing itself to the rich heritage of workwear’s important dynamic, it’s the menswear label AFFXWRKS.
This is why we are going to take the time to discuss the waves AFFXWRKS has been making throughout the industry. And to make sure we have the best perspective on this topic, we will also feature an exclusive interview with two of the four co-founders, Stephen Mann and Taro Ray, to help give us insight into the philosophy behind AFFXWRKS, what workwear means to them, and why it continues to be a force to reckon with.
Workwear was developed to be worn by individuals engaging in intensive physical and manual labour. Initially used by miners in the late 18th century, the hard-wearing fabric became a common element for those in manual work environments because of its ability to withstand daily wear-and-tear. Since its inception, people employed throughout the trade industry have been typically outfitted with workwear because of its built-to-last approach. In many ways, workwear can be characterized as having paved the way for modern functional wear because it conceptualized a space for design that emphasized a garment’s ability to serve a specific function: using sturdy fabric to ensure the long-term durability of garments within labor-intensive environments. Workwear has extended beyond the bounds of those involved in manual labour by influencing a vast array of brands and designers throughout the fashion industry such as visvim, Kaptain Sunshine, and most notably Junya Wantanabe.
Based in London, AFFXWRKS is a collaborative effort that was founded in 2016 by a small yet well-credentialed team. The collective began with Gimme Five founder Michael Kopelman, stylist and creative consultant Stephen Mann, MACKINTOSH project designer Taro Ray, and the founder of the eponymous label Kiko Kostadinov. Guided by the concept “New Utility,” AFFXWRKS pays homage to workwear by producing modern and progressive interpretations of industrial-inspired uniforms that are infused with elements of streetwear and utilitarian themes.
AFFXWRKS began as a segment on online radio Know Wave and showcased mixes from the likes of Skinny Macho, Emma DJ, IORI, and Helm. The show is largely centered around experimental, industrial and electronic music, but embraces these genres through esoteric and distinctive track selections that push the boundaries of what you would expect from your run-of-the-mill mixes. With a rapidly growing audience, it was only a matter of time until the collective decided to expand their platform by tapping into their design roots to produce garments as a full-fledged brand.
The first physical embodiment of AFFXWRKS’ product offerings premiered in 2017 at Dover Street Market London and revolved around the concept of “Rapid Prototyping”. Utilizing a HANDJET portable printer, the creative ensemble quickly printed bold graphics and text slogans onto AFFXWRKS branded apparel in order to explore progressive ways to develop and produce clothes. This demonstration gave the event a distinct art-performance feel by bringing together completely separate, yet deeply related environments: the labour-intensive process of manufacturing products in the middle of an orderly retail space that the garments would eventually become a part of.
Since the release of their first collection, AFFXWRKS has offered a selection of garments such as graphic t-shirts, logo sweatshirts, trousers, hats, outerwear, and technical nylon pants. Seemingly regular stuff for a brand their size, but the execution and attention to detail remains unmatched. What may seem like a standard work jacket has a modern cut, water-resistant construction, adjustable waist and reflective piping throughout. AFFXWRKS has even collaborated with Asics for several successful sneakers such as the Novablast and Gel Kinsei OG.
In order to get a better understanding of the relationship between functional wear and workwear, let’s take a look at a selection of AFFXWRKS pieces that exemplify this unique and rich dynamic:
DUO-TONE WORK PANT
First up are the duo-tone work pants. The duo-tone work pants pay homage to utility pants along the lines of the Dickies 874, but instead of the standard monotone aesthetic and detailing, AFFXWRKS takes the classic pants a step further by experimenting with high-grade materials and interesting colour combinations. In terms of the materials and design, the duo-tone work pants use a combination of polyester and cotton Cordura twill and ripstop, while boasting a relaxed fit and panelled construction. Functionally, the ripstop is utilized at the outer leg and rear cuffs for added durability while twill is seen at the inner legs for added breathability and comfort. The pants also feature a comfortable elasticated waistband and are outfitted with curved hand pockets and a single rear pocket concealed by the yoke. Rounding out the details is an anodised D-ring attached above the left front pocket.
DUTY PANT
The design language of the original utility pants continues to maintain a presence in AFFXWRKS’ spring summer ’21 collection. Here, the “duty pants” and “utility pants” can both be seen as playing on a similar silhouette but taking some liberties with the use of progressive materials and unique features. The duty pants come with a cotton polyester crease-resistant blend that gives it a lighter weight than most ready-to-wear utility pants and comes equipped with an affix lock-and-slide snap closure, with an AFFXWRKS logo on the central rear belt loop.
UTILITY PANT
Second up are the utility pants. The utility pants play up the “utility” aspect of the pants by drawing inspiration from the pocket-laden carpenter pants. But instead of the typical dense and unwieldy material that comes with off the shelf brands, AFFXWRKS has the utilitarian-lovers covered during the warmer seasons with a nylon and polyester blend that makes these pants breathable and water-resistant.
DUO-TONE SHIRT
Another great example of the dynamic relationship between workwear and functional wear is the duo-tone shirt. The duo-tone shirt draws inspiration from utility shirts worn by mechanics, which typically features the use of heavier cotton materials and a monotone aesthetic. AFFXWRKS expands on this otherwise simple design by experimenting with the same high-grade materials and play on colour combinations as the duo-tone work pants. In terms of the materials and design, the duo-tone shirt is built with a combination of polyester and cotton Cordura twill and ripstop that features a panelled construction and a cropped sleeve fit. Functionally, ripstop is utilized at the shoulders and inner body of the shirt for added durability while twill is seen at the main body and 3/4 sleeves for added breathability and comfort. Fastened with a lightweight snap closure, it is finished with a tool pocket beneath the left chest and an anodised aluminum D-ring tab attached below the front pocket.
VISIBILITY COACH JACKET
The AFFXWRKS visibility coach jacket is another great piece that breathes new life into a classic piece that was first used by American football coaches. The standard coach jacket is primarily made with nylon and features a point collar, snap-button front, hip pockets and drawstring waist design. It also boasts lightweight and water-resistant features, which makes it the go-to jacket for coaches navigating unpredictable weather conditions all through game season. The AFFXWRKS reinterpretation emphasizes a play on textures and modified features. In terms of materials, the shell fabric utilizes a durable and highly reflective nylon that is lined with a warming Tecnopile fleece. In terms of function, the jacket features two hand pockets, interior patch pocket at chest, a woven side seam label, a contrast extended Cordura underarm panel detail, and a Vislon zip closure. Yet another example of AFFXWRKS’ commitment to the utility and design qualities that define the workwear ethos.
BOXED BLOUSON
A play on the original coach jacket can also be found in AFFXWRKS’ spring summer ’21 collection. Here, the recently released “boxed blouson” plays on a similar silhouette but makes use of materials that provide a more streamlined aesthetic. The boxed blouson is made from a Japanese rayon blend fabric that is breathable and is equipped with a cupro lining to help with internal temperature regulation between warmer and cooler days.
To get a deeper insight into the AFFXWRKS universe and what workwear means to contemporary designers experimenting with utilitarian themes, we sat down with Stephen Mann and Taro Ray for an exclusive sabukaru interview.
What was the impetus to start the radio show and what was the motivation for expanding it into AFFXWRKS?
Know Wave UK used to broadcast out of MK’s [Michael Kopelman] warehouse, which is across the road from our studio. Having the equipment to record/a mutual connection with the station and an extended family of DJ’s that we connected with in local scenes meant that it made sense to utilise this tool to show people what was happening on the ground around us.
What was the inspiration behind the brand’s name?
The word AFFXWRKS is defined as an addition to the base form of a word that modifies its meaning. This feels in line with what we believe we do within our design.
What does the concept “New Utility” mean to AFFXWRKS?
New utility is the founding principle for AFFXWRKS; it’s where the conversation started, a pairing of words we felt connected our individual ideals to a collective pursuit that could be applied across multiple mediums.
Taro Ray and Stephen Mann
Many of the garments and associated campaigns produced by AFFXWRKS are inspired by workwear.
Can you explain the reasoning behind AFFXWRKS’ emphasis of the utilitarian design themes that are a mainstay throughout each of the collections and campaigns?
We tend to look to design that solves a specific problem as a starting point, and then consider how that solution could be applied or re imagined to equip us and our customer with a ‘tool’ that serves their needs.
What role or significance do you think functional design should have throughout the industry?
Functionality is important, but personality/attitude also needs to be considered so the design should have room for the owner’s interpretation.
In the Spring/Summer 2021 collection, AFFXWRKS released an “A.I. standardised logo t-shirt” which made use of machine learning to reinterpret the AFFXWRKS logo.
In some ways, this can be understood as an expansion from traditional workwear to programming and computer-based industries. What was the motive behind implementing this specific technique? Is there something about A.I machine learning that caught AFFXWRKS’ attention?
We were interested in the idea of removing control in the creation process so the idea of using the A.I process to relearn our logo in a completely non-decorative way was interesting to explore.
A.I. STANDARDISED LOGO LS T-SHIRT
Could you please give us a brief rundown of all the members and their current role/function within the brand?
How does the collaborative nature benefit the brand? Is it something that helps distinguish AFFXWRKS from other brands in the industry?
AFFXWRKS was co-founded by 4 established creatives. AFFXWRKS is currently 3 of its founders as Kiko has decided to focus on the development of his own label which we support. In terms of how we collaborate, it is always beneficial to have a range of perspectives and thought processes looking at the problem in hand as it stimulates discussion.
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With several creatives involved in the direction of AFFXWRKS, it would be interesting to know how your creative process unfolds. Can you provide insight into what the AFFXWRKS creative process looks like?
We focus our approach to the values we set out for the brand and we bring ideas to the table based on aligning with the brand rather than any one person’s individual voice. This process applies to everyone who contributes in the studio and creates a stronger environment for exchange of ideas.
Music is a large part of AFFXWRKS’ identity. In what ways does it influence the brand?
Music influences the brand in the sense that the team is engaged with it and we are all interested and curious in the past, present, and future of music. From being in a group of people who are always absorbing and discussing music, it naturally informs our approach.
Taro, you have been featured as a DJ on Know Wave several times. Your mixes come across as quite eclectic, yet each song seamlessly transitions into each other. Does your approach to DJing play a role in other areas of your work?
Music and clothing as creative outputs have very different ways of functioning. The rules and social norms surrounding both follow different logics, so it’s not easy to directly translate ideas from one to another without it feeling on the nose. In a much vaguer approach, I guess you could say that mixing unexpected sources and ideas together could be something that as a thought process carries over to both.
Taro, as an alumnus from Central Saint Martin (a world-renowned academic institution that is synonymous with the industry's greatest talents), what value does your education have when it comes to your professional development? How important is education for someone who wants to get into the industry?
I think education is important in getting into any industry, but that can come from studying at an institution, assisting someone, or working somewhere and learning on the job. What an institution like Saint Martins provided for me more than anything, was that it helped me build a solid base of friends and equals that you would grow with and who would eventually take their places within a renewed fashion industry. Having that support network was indispensable.
Stephen, as a stylist and creative consultant, you’ve worked in a myriad of contexts such as Missoni, Arc’teryx and with musicians such as Mansur Brown. What are the factors that guide the decisions you make throughout these different settings?
In my work my priority is to understand and connect with what the designer or brand is trying to say with the product they have made or plan to make. This will in turn inform my approach to the collaboration and finding the right path for the collection edit / presentation /show etc., to best communicate their values. I take very much the same process with AFFXWRKS as I feel having a common goal allows for stronger collaboration than individual opinion.
Stephen, you studied illustration yet you’ve established yourself as a go-to within the fashion industry. Are there any insights you can share for people who have different interests but may not know how to channel them into a specific area of work?
I feel the most important thing is to find a way that works for you as an individual to communicate your ideas and early on in your journey put yourself in lots of different rooms in the field you are excited about so you get an overview of the industry and different roles within. This will provide context and potentially help find where your voice/skills are best applied and can inform your next steps.
How has the COVID-19 pandemic shaped AFFXWRKS, and how do you think it has impacted the industry more broadly?
The pandemic has obviously been very disruptive for everyone but it has allowed for a change in pace. The biggest impact is not being able to physically show your products and share the progress of our brand with our partners.
What does the future have in store for AFFXWRKS?
Who knows what the future holds. We are just excited to be here in the now and to continue to develop our brand.
Over the years, AFFXWRKS has established itself as the go-to for contemporary explorations of the materials, fabrics and silhouettes that can be found in modern uniforms and traditional workwear. With a clear statement of intent supported by the New Utility, AFFXWRKS comes to the market with a line of messaging and products that are intended for lovers of new concepts and instrumentalization of fashion.
The comprehensive knowledge of street culture and fashion design that the collective brings to the table is what helped launch AFFXWRKS into prominence and continues to make them one of the most exciting and forward-thinking new brands in the industry. That is why, when it comes to functional design and the evolution of workwear: AFFXWRKS is here to stay.
Words by Raffi Aintablian
Interview by Raffi Aintablian and Natsuki Ludwig
Special thanks to Stephen Mann and Taro Ray
