This Thing of Ours - Building a Functional Legacy
This Thing of Ours [T.T.O.O] is a menswear store in Manchester [rather than a Manchester Menswear Store - theres a difference]. Offering a “product first” mix of globally sourced, hard to find goods from Asian, European and US brands the store has developed a loyal, local and international following.
Recognising that interesting things happen where contrasting worlds meet, founder Tim McTavish has carved a niche in a clothing obsessed city by stocking some of the worlds finest urban outdoor wear and mixing it with 80/90’s hip hop, Americana and Ivy League sportswear influences. The result has been a rapidly growing fan base, a recent move to bigger premises and the shift into creative consultancy services that have attracted like minded clients including Goldwin and Merrell 1TRL.
As the saying goes “necessity is the mother of invention” but it's also a source for a fair amount of functional appropriation. To keep them selves dry and protected, Mancunians have relied in the past on buying up mountain for down mountain use. Reliable product from the likes of Berghaus and [regional brands] Mountain Equipment and Sprayway has become essential wardrobe rotation and for some has developed into an almost perverse appreciation for bad weather and a love of “Big Jacket” season
Despite being common place, taking a jacket [or any piece of technical kit] out of its natural habitat has often meant compromise. For all the benefits of multiple pockets and waterproof/breathable materials, there has always been the problem of stiff, overly heavy fabrics developed for sailing, helmet compatible outdoor hoods sitting too big and performance proportioned climbing jackets with slim bodies and wide arms. The recognition [and in some cases begrudged acceptance] of a new consumer who seeks the benefits of outdoor apparel for everyday [largely urban] use has driven a rapidly expanding market.
In an attempt to grab a piece of the Gorppie, established outdoor brands have mixed their approaches. From simplifying or adapting existing product for a new user, to creating sub brands (with their own identity), to exploring back catalogues for retro appeal, to endless brand and fabric collaborations. At the other end of the spectrum, fashion brands will sporadically dip their collective toes in and out when trends dictate, taking a more free, less functionally restricted approach to design (with mixed results).
Then there are the brands that inhabit T.T.O.O. Those including Norbit Hiroshi Nozawa, Comfy Outdoor Garment, CAYL, GOOPiMADE and CCP who have taken a pavement up approach to design. They are creating product that seamlessly merges recognisable yet progressive silhouettes [whether they be military, tailoring, sporting or workwear inspired] with technical materials/details, advanced manufacturing methods and niche socio-cultural influences. All designed for an educated user who is seeking adaptable urban outdoor wear with the flexibility to work in a range of contexts, climates and end uses. It’s a result of product exploration and improvement, grounded in lifestyle functionality and story telling rather than the creation of different for different sake. A formula pioneered and uniquely spun by Asian brands like Visvim, Nonnative and Sophnet, through to forgotten, pre internet Manchester labels Elk clothing [helmed by Oi-Polloi Co founder Nigel Lawson and Smiths guitarist Johnny Marr] and DupeManchesterClothingEngland [“for acid casuals”].
Now successfully championed by This Thing of Ours we talked to Tim about why he opened the store, what is so special about the brands he stocks and why it’s worked so well in Manchester.
Hi Tim, thanks for taking the time to talk with us. You’re not a typical Manchester Menswear store are you?
T : I think there are key elements that we share with others in the city but as someone who has never really followed the crowd our viewpoint and influences are different. This gives us a unique approach but one that is still underpinned by some of the fundamentals you already mentioned like the need for weather beating clothing and a love of great product design.
So what prompted you to open?
T : A long list of reasons really but a personal desire to find something different in Manchester and the UK that I wasn’t able to find easily as a customer was as significant as anything in the decision. There’s been a lot of consolidation in menswear over the last years in the UK which means a lot of stores here have all started to look the same and lose a bit of their individuality which wasn’t really for us.
Tell us about some of the brands you stock?
T : We stock an edited selection of harder to find brands from all over really. We’ve definitely got an Asian brand dominance but thats balanced off with brands from the USA and Europe too. We’re taking a boutique approach and not simply just looking to stock as many brands as possible. If we take something new on its because we really believe it fits the store and believe our customers would want to have access to that brand (because we do too). Over the last 2 years we’ve been pioneers in the UK for brands like Norbit Hiroshi Nozawa, Comfy Outdoor Garment, CAYL, GOOPiMADE and others that were rarely heard of here before. We’re happy to have played our part in giving these brands and their product a platform here and it’s something we hope to continue in finding new talent.
Your stylings great, your buying mix is quite unexpected - while it might be what you are known for it’s not 100% tech wear. What inspires you?
T : Thanks, we really have fun with the styling and hope that comes across. I definitely wouldn’t describe it as Tech Wear either, I’m not really a fan of putting badges on things as this can be really limiting for a store as much as it is for an individual.
T : Our buying is simply inspired by the things that interest us the most and this is definitely fluid, but if I had to pinpoint some key influences then I’m a long time Hip Hop head at heart and there is a massive piece of that in anything I do. US sportswear from both a leisure and performance perspective and a general interest in design would be a good broad summary but honestly there is so much more.
I know your backgrounds marketing but you were/are(?) also a good athlete? Has that informed buying or increased your interest in the technical side of product?
T: Lol I wouldn’t feel like I could describe myself as an athlete these days but sure performance has definitely had an influence on my business and personal life. This has brought with it an appreciation for the advantages that a technical feature can provide, be that on a performance level or simply for comfort in day to day life. The trickle down effect of features from performance driven products into everyday life is definitely an interesting topic and can be seen in everything from Cars, Electronics and of course Clothing. Things that are state of the art today might become a part of everyday life and this constant evolution keeps things interesting. As I said before I’m not one to stand still and be satisfied with the status quo.
Who is your customer base?
T : Really mixed to be honest, we’re fortunate enough to have a committed following both locally and in the wider UK and all over the world really. We’re forever grateful and it always puts a smile on my face when I see an order come in from a regular or from some random place half way around the world. Having people travel to visit us in store is also really humbling and we’ve had people make trips from some mad places.
Any female customers?
T : Yeah for sure, Some of our most committed regulars are female customers.
You’re really service led, you understand the product and the technicality but its not a gatekeepers approach - how do your customers respond?
T : I think this one is simple. It’s not really something that is thought out on our side, we treat customers like we would want to be treated and not just as £ signs. If customers trust us with their purchase then the very least we can do is give a sh*t about their experience.
Any British brands on the horizon?
The short answer is Yes. We’ve got a couple of brands we are securing currently and hope to have in store for Autumn, one in particular we’re very excited about as we feel like we’re onto someone quite early that has a really special talent.
Whats next for This Thing of Ours?
T : It’s been a mad 2-3 years getting to this point but whilst we’re very grateful we feel that we’re just warming up. You can definitely expect us to grow our brand list in 2022, we’ve got a really nice balance of upcoming brands and more established names that we’re really excited to be working with.
T : On top of that we’ve been lucky enough to work on some impressive collaborations and exclusive products with some of our favourite brands and you can expect to see these launch across 2022 and into 2023. We’ve still got a couple of surprises up our sleeves that we’re excited about too but I’m keeping schtum on these for now…
Text and Illustration by Andrew Dudgeon
Images by Anthony Lee & Arthur Lombardo
