UNDERCOVER's Anti-War Jewelry Collection - A/W 2001 "Decorated Armed Voluntary Forces"
Undoubtedly, UNDERCOVER is one of the most daring, cutting-edge Japanese fashion labels. From iconic collections like the S/S 2003 "SCAB" and A/W 2004 "But Beautiful...", cinema-themed collections like A/W 2019 "The Droogs" and A/W 2021 "Creep Very", Jun Takahashi & UNDERCOVER are never afraid of making their messages clear.
The brand's A/W 2001 collection is no exception. Titled "Decorated Armed Voluntary Forces" [often shortened to DAVF], the collection fuses two worlds at the opposite ends of the spectrum; jewelry and military. While the items mainly consist of military-inspired garments and jewelry, the message behind the collection was nothing other than anti-war.
By mixing elements of something playful like jewelry with military and bedazzling out all the garments, Takahashi makes yet another political statement, making it clear where he stands.
In a magazine from 2001 in the Sabukaru archive, Jun Takahashi is interviewed about the collection, accompanied by a unique editorial of the collection. The shooting sees models styled in items from the collection, with their faces covered by a clear chandelier to match the gems & stones. Some highlight pieces are the field jacket engulfed in purple diamonds, the clear-crystal bullet belt, and a jacket with diamond rings attached to the collar.
But not only was this collection special because of the jewelry & military motifs, there were in fact many pieces with graphics created by Futura, mostly on tailored items. When asked about his decision, Takahashi responded "[...]NIGO inputs Futura's graphics in his own way, which I respect and like. He does the streetwear side of things, whereas I am more on the fashion side. I think my job is to create new things, things that haven't been done before, and I don't think anyone has put Futura graphics on tailored items. That's my way of respecting his art."