Shaking up the Footwear Game: Afew Goods ‘Yamasura’ Soil Runner
Founded in 2008 by two brothers, Andreas and Marco Biergen, AFEW Store is a German-based sneaker boutique that has been dishing up the finest releases from the likes of Nike, New Balance, Asics and a slew of others. With this retail experience under their belt, as well as the knowledge they have cultivated through countless collaborations with familiar names, the AFEW team are a real bunch of titans. Clearly, they realised the best way to go about this was to get stuck in and learn from the inside-out.
All things considered, now seemed like the right time to finally do their own shoe.
The end result is a combination of almost two decades worth of expertise in the sneaker business, as well as over three years in development, and countless collaborations with industry titans like Asics, Saucony and Diadora; three of the biggest names in athletic footwear. Channelling these years of experience and cultivated expertise, they have produced something that is wholly indicative of the Afew identity, an independent brand, called Afew Goods that sits under the AFEW umbrella: ‘The label deliberately combines the two opposing worlds of streetwear and sustainability.
It has long been a preconception that the worlds of streetwear and sustainability cannot exist in harmony with each other, but these times are changing. If the big dogs in the industry aren’t willing to do so, then AFEW is happy to undertake the challenge. They are upping the ante, challenging the status quo and reaffirming any pre-existing notions we had about sustainable footwear.
In an industry that is hardly synonymous with sustainability, environmental awareness or any of those typical buzzwords we’re so accustomed to seeing now, AFEW Goods is a namesake that is trying to do some good. Apparel and footwear production doesn’t harbour the friendliest practices for the environment; in fact, when combined, the fashion industry contributes up to 10% of global carbon emissions per year which is as much as the European Union. So, if there’s a way as individuals that we can offset this number whilst simultaneously buying well-made, aesthetically pleasing footwear, we’re all for it.
With some background established, let’s explore the nitty-gritty of the ‘Yamasura’ Runner. Before it landed itself on the desktops and iPhones of industry folk, it had to undergo eleven rounds of sampling, as well as blood, sweat, tears and turmoil.
Nevertheless, the end result is so worth it.
Designed in Germany and handcrafted in Portugal, the Yamasura runner fuses various focal points of inspiration that are dear to the design team. Specifically, the midsole - the heart of the shoe - which was designed around the look of the twin radiators on the side of Ferrari’s Testarossa, a high-performance sports car produced in various iterations between the early 1980s to the late 1990s. Having recognised the impact algae is having on other plants, animals and even human life, the midsole itself turns a negative into a positive by using a BLOOM Algae EVA foam developed by ForEver, in turn purifying 16 liters of water and cleaning 10 m³ of air with each sole. Without compromising sustainable practices or quality, they sourced vegan materials like suede, nubuck and mesh from across Europe and coupled this with a recycled PU inlay sole. To round things off, each pair comes packaged in a shoe box made from 100% recycled paper. See, it’s the little things.
No one can describe the whole process better than the man himself, Andreas Biergen, co-founder of AFEW.
“‘The idea was to build a “time machine” and bring people back in the 80s/90s. At this time, many of the great silhouettes we still love today were created. Our goal was to create a shoe that feels like 80/90s OG with a sustainable background.’”
The whole process from start to finish is very organic and transparent, a couple of pillars that are key to the ideals of Afew Goods; more specifically, a keen eye on fabrics and packaging of goods.
To some people it may seem like another unnecessary shoe release, but this goes deeper than that: it’s a real tremor in the industry that will shake things up going forward. For the better, too.
Off the back of our recent feature with Yuthanan, we have once again teamed up with the Tokyo-based photographer and stylist to create an exclusive editorial that showcases Afew Goods’ ‘Yamasura’ runner. Shot and styled through a familiar lens, the editorial features Sabukaru favourites including Descendant, C.P. Company, Fresh Service and Graphpaper, photographed on location in Enoshima. In the process, hopefully, we, the Sabukaru team, can open up your minds to a more sustainably led sneaker - a truly honest moment in the industry.
To gain a deeper insight into the whole process behind the development of the trainer, the Sabukaru team caught up with Andreas Biergen who founded AFEW and Afew Goods, alongside his brother Marco, in 2008. Touching bases on everything from goals for Afew Goods to the era that so heavily inspired the Yamasura and, also, some of the most challenging steps along the way. Buckle in, grab a beverage and soak up the knowledge.
Hey AFEW Team, let’s start this with a classic Sabukaru Intro: Can you please introduce yourself to the Sabukaru Network?
Hello, Sabukaru Family. My name is Andreas Biergen together with my brother Marco I started “AFEW” back in 2008.
After many years working in retail, what was the driving force behind starting your own brand AfewGoods?
We have always done various smaller projects or collaborations since the beginning of AFEW. The first time we thought about creating our own brand was after reading the book "Let my people go surfing" by Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard.
Yvon describes the vision of his brand and his goal to be a role model in terms of sustainability by using the brand's impact and power.
Inspired by his book, we started working on the idea of launching our very own brand. A brand that uses the power of streetwear to make a difference. Not only by using sustainable resources but being good-looking/ fresh at the same time.
How do you define the goals you have with AfewGoods and what do you eventually want to do differently than the major brands you are usually working with?
As a newcomer to the subject, we first and foremost wanted to get familiar with the world of the fashion industry. Not only understanding how products are made but also get to know the involved people. Moreover, learning more about the art of different kinds of materials and resources.
Now we are confident enough to know what we have to look after regarding materials and production.
That is the base of Afew Goods.
In the next step, we are working on various projects and products that we will launch with different partners and activists. We want to draw attention to important issues or to generate revenue for the partners.
These projects will be staged in a contemporary way. Every project will be appeal to our identity, as Afew Goods does not want to be the brand running "eco-campaigns".
What sets us apart from many other companies is the level of transparency we provide. One of the most important aspects of our ID is to create awareness for customers. They should get the opportunity to get to know their product and every single aspect of it. That includes the people behind every step of our value chain, resources, processes, and price-colocation.
Our goal is to become a brand that creates pieces in a sustainable way and uses its power to change things... and do good (sounds very weird and a bit like an advertising slogan, but we let ourselves be measured by that.) If we don't manage to move good things in the next 5 years, we would consider our project failed.
Let’s talk about the Yamasura. How did this idea and project come together and unwrap itself?
We had the idea to create the shoe right at the beginning when we started with Afew Goods. But since that project is extremely complex, it took a long time to finish.
We started by googling "shoe-production in Europe" and approaching any people we knew being in the shoe production industry.
It was a very long way on which we met many interesting people and stories. It was time-consuming. Looking back, it was a super exciting time.
Again, you guys worked on many collaborations, sold thousands of shoes - with what kind of mindset, idea, and design ethos did you approach the task of designing your very own sneaker?
The idea was to build a "time machine" and bring people back in the 80s/90s. At this time, many of the great silhouettes we still love today were created. Our goal was to create a shoe that feels like 80/90s OG with a sustainable background.
The Yamasura is inspired by 80s and 90s running silhouettes. What is it about runners from that era that inspired you to use that kind of silhouette for your own shoe?
It is not that we have taken different elements from shoes and built a kinda “best of it” shoe out of it. We have just drawn inspiration by materials, shape & aesthetics of some classic shoes from different brands like New Balance & Nike, Etonic, or Avia who created sick shit back in the days.
The result is a completely new shoe, but it feels like it was really created back in the 80/the 90s, and we're bringing it back as a retro now. (So the trick with the time machine worked).
You must have learned a lot in the process, what were the most challenging steps and what were the most fulfilling moments?
To be honest, almost every process was a big challenge. From the design to the choice of materials, everything. Since we had no experience in shoe production, we had to learn everything from scratch.
The biggest challenge was probably to produce our sole. Today almost all soles are produced in Asia. Finding a sole-production in Portugal was very difficult. We were lucky enough to get in touch with "Forever" - a small family business in Portugal. They are specialized in sustainable sole-production and can produce ours using a new type of algae EVA.
Moreover, the Yamasura is packed with subtle and thought-through details.
There are millions of sneaker fans worldwide, but the anatomy of a sneaker is still something that most people aren’t too familiar with. Could you please take us by the digital hand and go through the process of building a sneaker from A-Z? What are some of the key steps?
Short and simple: Numerous brainstorm sessions. After we had an idea we visualized our idea into a design. Of course, we had to do this over and over again and retouch our design.
After the design was finished, we started looking for a producer. As mentioned before, it was a key aspect of finding a producer in Europe. Besides that, having a personal relationship and sharing the same values are also important to us.
It wasn´t a match on the very first try. Over 14 producers tried to work with us. Many of them realized that they are not able to implement the shoes as we imagine. Also, we had other different problems which led us to break up the cooperation.
After we found Pedro, we started to finalize the shoe, which means: retouch and arrange every single part of the shoe.
When the shoe finally had the shape and aesthetics we had imagined, we had to find the right materials.
Therefore, we´ve visited numerous trade fairs and manufacturers. Our goal was to use sustainable materials without compromising quality. Moreover, we had to consider this aspect for components like packaging, glues, laces, insoles, etc.
It's the year 2021; Everybody and every brand try to jump on the sustainability wave. While many big players slowly start, you guys are bringing out a sustainable approach right now. What do you think the rest of the industry can learn from you?
First of all, it is good that everyone has jumped on the "sustainability train" and that sustainability is now a trend, even if many companies use sustainability more as a marketing tool, it is good that we are all more aware of it.
In the future, consumers will understand what sustainability is all about. They will be able to differentiate between marketing "greenwashing" and sustainable commitment. In my opinion, it would change a lot if all companies would disclose their factories, resources, and pricing.
Our next step will be to use our "power" for good projects and important issues. In addition, we are already thinking a lot about how a sustainable company should be set up. In my opinion, current company models are kinda outdated. A business model such as steward ownership, where the company is dedicated to a purpose and not purely on growth is more timely and forward-looking. Companies like Ecosia that dedicate themselves to reforestation as a sub-theme are role models for us.
However, as I said, we are still completely at the beginning and will be measured by our words.
Last question: What's the story behind the name Yamasura?
The name has a deep personal background. All those who know us a little better will get the meaning behind it. But we do not want to communicate it to the outside and keep this a secret.
The Afew Goods Yamasura "Soil" will release on Saturday the 31st July INSTORE & ONLINE.
Production: Bianco Bianco Tokyo
Direction: Sabukaru
Producer: Marta Espinosa
Art Director: Natsuki Ludwig & Adrian Biancio
Producer Assistant: Casey Omori
Photography & Stylist: Nicolas Yuthanan Chalmeau
Photo Assistant: Harry Zhang
Model: AJ
About the author:
Ali George Hinkins is a UK-based freelance writer, currently contributing to eye_C Mag, Sabukaru Online and his own respective website. The topics he covers are broad but he mostly dabbles in technical clothing, from performance-wear to outdoors gear. Striving to provide content outside of generic media output, he immerses himself in the realities of those working inside the industry and translates those stories.
