ClothingCasey OmoriJanuary 12, 2022

Tokyo’s Underground Fashion ARchive - ZSC

ClothingCasey OmoriJanuary 12, 2022

It’s no surprise that Japan is the land of hobbyists where any subculture or rabbit-holes you get yourself into, there’s probably a handful that share the same passion as you. Especially true in the case of archive fashion where no country does it better when it comes to preserving often forgotten or looked-over garments from the past. With access to sites like Yahoo Auction and Mercari, it’s hard to see this subculture fade out anytime soon.

Though archive fashion has transcended into the mainstream in recent years, only a select few actually have the privilege to get their hands on the most sought after pieces from celebrated designers like Martin Margiela, Raf Simons, and Helmut Lang.

What if there was a place, hidden from plain sight, housing the most coveted pieces from critically acclaimed designers under one roof. And to top it off, this place also showcases pieces from under-the-radar names which have the potential to become the archive of the future. This is the best explanation for the Tokyo archive showroom/store ZSC.

Although still young, ZSC has gained a cult-following of avid patrons that frequents the showroom’s humble space. But being young doesn’t mean the store is still developing; the collection of clothing in ZSC has been collected by the owner for a very long time, since his interest in fashion kicked off. Although an appointment is needed to be booked beforehand if you ever want to visit the store, any visit will be worth it. Whether you know what you want to buy, or you just want to browse the selection, reach out to ZSC and you will be guided with an experience that fits your needs.

Besides cultivating a tasteful selection of pieces, the store also dabbles in other disciplines like creative direction, styling/ design consulting, and costume making.

The man behind this brilliance of a store is HOKKIEE, a keen individual with a sharp eye for design. Aside from managing his own store, the brand HOKITA is also another brainchild of his that is quickly making a name for itself amongst aficionados. The clothing label focuses on creating futuristic pieces equipped with technical features, best worn for those daily Tokyo commutes.

To best understand his work and process, the Sabukaru team sat down with HOKKIEE for an interview to talk about his store, his brand, and himself.

Can you please introduce yourself to the Sabukaru Network?

Hi, I am HOKKIEE. I am the owner of ZSC and the designer of HOKITA.

How long have you been into fashion & clothes for?

Ever since I was about 3 or 4. Back then, I became interested in colors at first. Then I started to pay more attention to clothes and shoes, and before I realized it I was drawn into the world of clothes and fashion.

What is the story behind ZSC?

It’s my lifework and I have never really felt this kind of excitement with any of my other work before. With ZSC, I aim to offer pieces at an affordable price to those who really want them. I have a large selection of archive and vintage clothing at ZSC, as well as my own brand HOKITA.

Over the past years, you have accumulated quite a few archive pieces that are very hard to come by. How did this passion for collecting garments come about?

Curiosity is the only reason why I’m in this game. I love seeing things I’ve never seen before and it’s a very fun process to understand each designer’s aesthetics and stories behind their garments.

So you have two stores. ZSC in Harajuku, and another in Shibuya, ZSC Library. What is the concept behind your ZSC Library?

I aim for ZSC Library to be a multipurpose space. It usually features specific designers or items for a limited time only. The selection and curation at ZSC Library is a bit more narrow than the lineup at ZSC. There is also sometimes a selection of old Japanese fashion magazines for sale at ZSC Library as well.

Do people need to buy something if they book an appointment? Or can they book an appointment just to go see the clothes as well?

For ZSC Library, feel free to stop by whenever if I have made an announcement that it will be open. For now, this is usually only friday nights. You can also request what kind of visit you want beforehand at ZSC Library as well.

For ZSC, I make selections for each guest based on their interests, size, and color preferences. So please give me some details on what you would like to see when you make your appointment.

Are all items at ZSC for sale?

Not everything but I would say 99% is.

Besides the more well-known Raf Simons parkas and Margiela items, we also see that you collect pieces from under-the-radar names like Arnar Mar Jonsson and Per Gotesson, just to name a few. What design elements do you look for when scouting for designers like them?

When I look for pieces, I select ones that provoke a certain feeling in me. Ones that really speak out to me. I don’t really think much about their popularity or demand, and the results of this process, you can come see at ZSC.

In your current collection, what would you say are your favorite pieces?

For the archive pieces, it would have to be the AW2001 Alexander McQueen braid jacket, the SS2016 Calvin Klein collection Jacquard jacket & jeans, and the SS2010 Jil Sander by Raf Simons Abstract patched dress.

For newer pieces, it would be the MOKOO S-type curve zip jacket & trousers, the Mainline upcycled sofa leather jacket, and from my own brand, HOKITA TS-9 SURVIVAL 2.

Was there a particular piece that really got you into fashion?

The first piece that did it for me was a pair of thrifted Yohji Yamamoto jeans.

In our research we found out that you had an ANA airline hidden pocket vest. Tell us the story of how you got that piece? And are there any other oddly-cool pieces that you have in the collection?

I actually found that piece at a thrift store whilst I was in the States. At that time, I was collecting other airlines’ uniforms as well.

Can you name us any up-and-coming designers that you would like to get your hands on in the future or that recently made it into your archive?

It would definitely have to be MOOKO and Mainline. Their designs and styles are becoming more established in recent seasons.

The demand for archive fashion has soared in recent times with younger generations getting into it. What are your thoughts on this?

There’s no doubt that more people are getting into archive fashion. It’s all about continuing this tradition to preserve garments. But I don’t think there is actually any line that separates the future and the past. The most important thing is to find your style and what suits you.

Do you have a preference of past or present clothing? Or is it all about the design?

To me, there is no border line. I like to mix everything from all periods. Like a 70s COURREGES jacket meets a 00s Abercrombie cap paired with an upcoming designer’s trousers.

I also think we need to keep our eyes open for clothes of the present day if we are breathing and living in the now. Everything you wear has the potential of becoming a part of history.

Your store is very lowkey, tucked away and hidden from the main streets. Was this an intentional decision?

I’m just doing what I feel is natural. I also realized that with the nature of my store, having some sort of anonymity brings a peace of mind.

Can you tell us the concept behind your brand, Hokita?

HOKITA is based on the story of an anonymous country’s military uniform set in a future timeline. Besides the design, I focus on the functional aspects where every product I put out is carefully considered as to how it performs in daily activities like riding a bike.

How did Hokita start? How long has Hokita been a brand for?

I had originally never meant to produce a full collection for HOKITA. It started off with just one chalk bag that I had made. But soon after, I decided to start creating pieces that people have never seen before. That’s basically how it started, and today it's a grown and a big part of me.

How does production work for Hokita?

The very first core details come up in my mind at very random moments, like when I’m taking a bath. Once I get new ideas, I make some easy sketches and send them over to my pattern maker. And once they check the drawings, we start a conversation to discuss things like developing the details and sewing specifications.

We never overproduce. We only produce as much as we need. All of our products are created by hand at our studio.

From looking at Hokita to collecting early Stone Island and CP company, would you say that you have a love for technical features and fabrics?

I really admire Moreno Ferrari [CP Company] and Paul Harvey [Stone Island]. Their designs are very functional where everything is designed for a reason. But I actually prefer traditional/universal fabrics over technical ones because newborn fabrics usually present unexpected problems after years of use. I like garments that can last for generations without the quality deteriorating.

You talk about the clothes you design and how you don't want them to deteriorate. What is your opinion on the fashion industry today?

I think the most important thing is each individual person’s mindset. It comes down to whether or not people can keep a strong will when talking about fashion. If people are going to create something that’s going to become garbage in the future, I think the ones who aim to create things that last will be the ones who have an impact on the future.

Any future projects you are currently working on that you would like to share with us?

Currently, I’m working on a YouTube project with my friends where I explain each designer’s achievements in the industry while also showcasing the pieces in my collection. Videos will be uploaded soon so stay tuned for that!

How do you think fashion and clothes will change over the next years? How would you like fashion and clothes to change?

I think fashion is transforming into a more personal space. Like it is becoming more and more an important factor of everyone’s lives.

I want everyone to be able to judge, understand, and interpret things in their own language.

Let’s talk a little bit about you. What does a day for HOKKIEE look like?

3pm: wake up to an uber eats call

5pm: pack and ship orders

6pm: steam clothes

10pm: take a walk

12am: bath time

2am: take & edit photos

5am: update online store

6am: watch anime

7am: go to bed

What are some of your favorite movies?

The original STAR WARS series [1977-2005] is definitely a big part of my life. Some others are:

THE MATRIX [1999-2003]

BLADE [1998-2004]

THX1138 [1971]

PLANET OF THE APES [1968-1973]

ALIEN [1979-2017]

MAD MAX [1979-1985]

What is your favorite food? Do you have a go-to restaurant or izakaya?

These are my top 3 restaurants worldwide:

Baker Bounce
5 Chome-13-5 Taishido, Setagaya City, Tokyo 154-0004
*reservation required

The Farm on Adderley
1108 Cortelyou Rd, Brooklyn, NY 11218, United States

Mangal2
4 Stoke Newington Rd, London N16 8BH, United Kingdom

Who are some artists you’ve been listening to recently?

TSVI - “SOGNO”

JAKOJAKO - “MONDSCHEIN”

DON ZILLA - “Entambula”

ENDGAME - “THE SHADOW OF DEATH”

Do you have any hobbies you think might surprise anyone reading this?

I watch anime almost every day. I’m especially a huge fan of My Hero Academia. I feel the storytelling process of My Hero Academia is similar to my process of designing clothes.

Is there anything you can’t live without?

A measure. Both literally and figuratively.

Do you have any crazy stories that involve clothes?

This isn’t necessarily a story, but I have never cared about an item’s price if I really think I need it. My mother taught me this when I was a kid. These words ended up being the core factor that lead to my life’s work.

What do you feel about the younger, up and coming generation? Do you have any words [good or bad] for them?

No matter what those around you say, trust what you personally see and hear, and go forward.

Thank you so much for your time!

Thank you guys too. It was great to be able to organize my thoughts.

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Text & Interview: Ihsan Rafdianto & Casey Omori
Interview Images: Natsuki Ludwig

SABUKARU x ZSC EDITORIAL
Produced by: Casey Omori
Images: Keisuke Morizawa
Creative Direction: Casey Omori & HOKKIEE
Styling: HOKKIEE
Model: Kouichi Sawano

Casey Omori